'74 2.0 - 28K

I am replacing the original struts - both are blown.

I purchased from the Bird two new Bilstein Green E4-WM5-Y116A00 struts.

I watched a few videos, in all of them, there was a complete rebuild of the suspension. in this car, I just need the struts.

QUESTION

Is it possible to do this without taking the calipers off of the brake line and then completely dropping the A-suspension assemble?

Thank you all Teeners!

CTC911CTC

Click to view attachment

Yes

and maybe it is better to replace your brake soft lines. brakes is one of the major important with our cars.

The hardest part for me was collapsing the shock insert to get it into the hole in the fender. My arms gave out after about the 10th try. I eventually figured out that I could collapse the shock and then use a bunch of zip ties to hold it down. I was then easily able to point the shaft to the hole inside the fender and then cut the zip ties and allow the shaft to slide up into the hole.

I did this once, many years ago. With the calipers unmounted, I was able to push down enough to get the top of the strut to clear the fender lip, and then tilt the strut out. I replaced the insert, and then pushed down and tilted it back inside the fender. If I remember correctly, the clearance is tight with a risk of gouging the paint on the fender lip.

Yes, it is possible and preferable. This method avoids removable of the tie rod
end.
Keep the key in the ignition so the strut can be rotated to reduce
stress on the brake hose.
On reassembly,install the dust cover, then protect the fender by placing a towel over
the top of the strut.
Use a very long 4mm bolt to pull the strut tip up into the movable fender mount.

This is very good news - though I may just take it all apart and replace all of the bushings........

I am a bit shy as to unloading the torsion rod, when the spindle is off the ground and the wheel is off, is there any torsional energy that will unwind?

Last, the mention of a 4mm long bolt, it is not clear what I would use that bolt to do? Would this be in place of loading the spindle for compression so the strut can bolt to the top of the shock tower?

Thank you ALL Teeners!

The 4mm bolt goes down the strut top and screws into the top of the shaft of the strut insert. It gives you something to hold on to.

I put a jack under the a-arm to help lift the strut into position in the car.

The whole job is pretty easy and quick. I use a big pipe wrench to take off the gland nut that holds the insert in the strut body.

After you take out the torsion bar adjusting screw and with wheel off the ground, there will be no energy in the torsion bar.

I'd highly recommend replacement of the bushings given these cars are all about 50 years old. It's also a good chance to inspect the torsion bars. If you have corrosion and pitting on the bars, or signs of rubbing on the inside of the LCA tube, it's time for replacement of the torsion bars too. Better to do it now than to have one break on you later. Label them R & Left. If the bars are still in good shape reinstall and revel in your good fortune.

Thank you - I will tear it all down - hopefully reveling at the end.

I was super pumped when we got it running and there were no knocks or other mechanical troubles, once the lifters were set......wow......almost new.

THANK YOU!

I took a piece of 1/8” welding rod and bent a round loop to go around the top of the insert and then a hook at the other end to hold the strut whilst compressed. Sorry no pictures. I got the idea from some replacement struts I got for another car.