Hey all: Regarding the AAR, I've bench tested two AAR's, one that I rebuilt and that seems to be working correctly, and another that freed up nicely with a long soak in PB Blaster. My question: Is the valve designed to close completely, or will there be just a small section of the narrow channel showing and still feeding some vacuum to the manifold?
Rob

On mine they close fully.

Yes, should close fully. There is a little adjustment nut on the backside; mine was a little pinhole off and adjusting it took 1 minute (once it was out of the car). A 12V source works best to test the heater element warmup.

Thanks: On the AAR that I rebuilt, Thank you Ian for the video! it was not closing completely so I pulled it apart again to access the adjustment screw on the bimetal spring. I cranked it as far closed as it would go. On the bench with 12v and a heat gun it still will not close all the way.
I have a second AAR that I popped the top off, 12v and heat and it also leaves a little bit of slot open. Think I should open this one up, clean it real well and adjust it more to the closed position?
I doubt I'll ever drive the car when it's real cold.
Somewhere, I believe that I read it should fully close at about 120 degrees F. On both bench tests I had the valve past 170 degrees.

Thoughts?

And while I have your attention: Can you confirm the AAR connects the CSV and the air cleaner housing?

I replumbed with the AA hose kit, followed the drawing , it's possible I have something not quite right.

Thanks

Djet or l-jet?

closes completely on an L jet.

pain in the arse is when it doesn't open enough.
or closes too quick.

Yeah, it's this bit I am wondering about "And while I have your attention: Can you confirm the AAR connects the CSV and the air cleaner housing?
"

I presume you mean eleectrically...

The auxiliary air valve gets system voltage from the T12-12 circuit when the fuel pump relay is energized. It stays hot as long as the engine is running.

The cold start valve gets system power from the T4-IV circuit, which is the same as the starter solenoid circuit (when key is on the "start" position; it stays hot only when the key is in that position.)

Both ground to the engine via various means.

Thanks: The valve is getting power, the harness is new from Jeff B. I have the lower hose connected to the CSV and the upper to the air filter housing as it was before I started the wiring/plumbing project.
I'm experiencing an idling issue that I didn't have before. Other than new harnesses, fuel lines and vacuum lines, the only hardware change was to replace an incorrect AAR with a correct AAR that I restored, and a new oil pressure sender. The AAR closes, but not completely, nor does another that I have on hand. Click to view attachment
Rob

If it helps...when my AAR failed I simply removed it and plugged the holes and taped up the wire. Most warm days I'd tickle the throttle for a minute, letting the oils flow around before driving away, and never notice it. On cold or silly-cold days it might take a couple minutes to get a solid idle.

It's a functional, but not awesome system. I never liked how it was constantly taking juice across a bimetallic coil when the car was running. Sure, not an incredible drain on the engine but silly nonetheless.

I am in the process of rebuilding the heating element part of mine.
It should close fully. The opening has two sections, a large open section and a second smaller section that also has an angled blockage at the far end. After 3 minutes of heating my valve, it still showed the far end of the smaller section.
You can see pics in this thread to better understand:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...=2&t=358064

Have you tried letting it warm up and then plugging it manually (like in the picture, looks like a dowl shoved into it). Does that fix your idle issues?

I had a second AAR and was able to get it rotating freely. I hooked it to the battery and about 8 minutes later it was fully closed! Now that that's out of the way I can focus on the vacuum line routing.
Cheers!