I bought my wife a 71 914-4 that has only minor rust. I always figured that if I find one that’s not about to break in half I can sort out mechanicals later. This one runs fine, will need a clutch soon, but everything works. So I have a good starting point.

I’ve since acquired a sideshifter from a later model and the associated linkage. I’m now seeking an engine case to start a build. My plan is to assemble the motor during the summer and have it ready when it comes back from the body shop after a season of driving, then mate the new motor and gearbox. The gearbox btw is being rebuilt by an old friend who’s a former gearbox engineer in formula one, so it’s getting a rebuild like no other.

There are a ton of options related to bore, valve size, carbs, etc. I’m looking for some sort of template I could use to determine which bore goes best with which valve size, carb size, etc. without such I’ll end up all out of whack.

If anyone has any examples of how they formulated their build I would be forever grateful.

What are your goals?
Speed? Long life? Cruising?

2.O liter crankshaft is easiest to buy from DPR or others.
Bigger pistons gets you to 2056 or 2270
Longer stroke is a longer discussion, and you will need to double your budget.

LN engineering may be a good site to review to see if he still sells kits.

Rich

I'm in the same boat as you. I have a good 1.7 case and I'm planning on building it out to a 2270. My understanding is that 2270 is as big as you can go without altering the case.

Then you'll have to decide if you want EFI or carbs. I believe that 2056 is as big as you can go using the stock FI system. And, if you decide to go with Carbs you will want a cam that is specific for carbs.

Having said all of that, I'm the least qualified person on 914world to be giving advice.

Bigger bore, not a stroker. I’m assuming those 71mm stroke kits don’t require machining? My wife wants to daily drive it, thus going fresh motor and gearbox. I’d like to get it north of 100bhp. Reliability is obviously a concern but she won’t flog it, and probably use it for about 4-5k annually. Once the mechanicals are sorted it’s off for paint and minor rust repair before putting the motor in.

I’d like to do the same, 103mm pistons. Crank, cam, but I’m going webers. I just need to sort out lobes and stuff since I’m getting a custom cam probably. But how do I determine the valve sizes? There are a ton of options.

I would build a 2056 with stock fuel injection. Go with a set of SS heat exchangers and a nice SS muffler and just drive and enjoy it.

103mm pistons with a 71mm stroke and 0.040" deck height is a 2366cc engine.

Beware, air cooled engines are much more sensitive to excess thermal loading than water pumpers. 2400cc engine is a 20% bump over a 2.0L (94mm x 71mm). That wouldn't be much on a water pumper. It is very significant to an air cooled engine. Unless you plan to use Nickies for your cylinders ($$$$) you'll be better served to stay at 96mm and a 2056 engine.

A 2056 will be the cheapest, and most reliable, way to meet your HP target. No issues with head or oil temps in general. Can use stock FI if desired.

A 2270 built right is also very reliable, but significantly more expensive. Then you need carbs or an aftermarket EFI. You will possibly / probably require supplemental oil cooling.

A 2366 is major surgery. Expensive, generates a lot of heat, and is much less likely to be a long-term reliable engine.

I've had a 1.7, a 2056, and now a 2270. They are all a lot of fun in their own way. Honestly, a well-built 2056 is a joy.

A T4 with 103 mm cylinders is not daily driver. I would definatly stay with a 2056.
It will get you north of 100 hp with some margin if built right and feel zippy enough to at least keep up with trafic. It all comes back to the old cheap, fast, reliable saying. You can only have two of the three.

Hi,

1.7 Case will need machine work to open the bores. I would source a 1.8 Case that doesn't need a line bore. 96mm will drop in.

You need a crank and rods. No difference in price between 71mm stroke & 78mm stroke.

I think you're going to have a problem finding some to do your heads. Hoffman Machine doesn't do that any longer. You may be buying new heads.

Intake noise with cars can be pretty loud. That trip to Cape May Point every summer she may be driving the daily, while you're in the teener. I still do this every year.

1.7, 1.8, and 2.0 engine block have the same bore opening to my knowledge...

2.0 stock crank can be had at reasonable price.

I would go 2056 with stock 2.0 D-Jet if you have it. You will need good set of 2.0 heads and stock or very mild cam (for d-Jet use), check with Web Cam.

MPS retuning will be necessary and AFM gauge will be needed to do this with trials and error. I would strongly advise in a temperature compensated cylinder head temperature gauge too.

Basically, as soon as you walk away from a stock setup, you will need to plan for more $$$.

Search on here, there are many engine build threads and recommendations.

First, I would make sure the body rust issues aren't worse than they seem, given your area...

Good luck with your project!

"1.7, 1.8, and 2.0 engine block have the same bore opening to my knowledge"

You are correct.

The Type Four Store has kits:

https://lnengineering.com/type-4-store/engine-kits.html

Based upon your goals, a 2056 is most likely the top choice.