Thank you to all who replied to my first posting regarding my 2056 L-jet build. I still could use some advice on cylinder heads, compression ratio, and valve sizes for this build. I forgot to mention that it will be a street car and I have decided to use a 9590 camshaft kit.

Heads:
I am considering having some new 2.0 AA Performance Products castings done up with a basic port job(one notch above stock), but would like to know how to address their "weaker chambers"(original 2.0 heads often crack and require machine work), or does anyone know if the new AA castings address this issue and come with stronger chambers? I have not received any replies from my inquires to AA.

Valve sizes:
For a street car with L-jet should I run 42x36 or 44x38 valves? I want the power band low to mid-range, so would I achieve better drivability and port velocity with the smaller valves?

Compression ratio:
Only ethanol laden 91 octane available here at the pumps in California.
From the Type IV Store website:
"9590 – This is the only camshaft that works with stock FI, but it will also work with carbs. Recommended compression ratio 8.0:1"
Also from the Type IV Store website is a chart(with footnotes) showing calculated compression ratios based off their Nickies cylinders(CS=Camper Special) and JE Pistons, although I am not using Nickies and I will be using KB Pistons:

Displacement Bore Stroke CR w/1mm deck CR w/1.5mm deck
2056cc 96mm CS 71mm 8.25:1 7.90:1
2056cc 96mm 71mm 8.64:1 8.25:1

*The target compression ratio will will vary depending on application, what camshaft profile is used, fuel quality, altitude, whether you are using carburetors or fuel injection, timing, tuning, and many other variables.
*You should not exceed compression ratios listed above at 1mm deck for 93 or 94 octane fuels; areas with 90 or 91 octane will require the compression ratio to be lowered by increased the deck height to 1.5mm by shimming your cylinders.

Jake says that "for sea level operation the 9590 cam should be kept at 8.5:1 max static compression ratio".

Would a 123ignition distributor allow me to run higher compression? I don't want to leave any horsepower on the table, but also don't want the engine to ping.

Thanks,

James

Pulling timing is the standard approach used to avoid detonation. But without a knock sensor, it is entirely dependent on your tuning. Plus you will need to leave margin to account for variations in barometric pressure and air temperature. The barn door on the AFM is not able to measure the air as well as a MAF sensor.

You should put effort into tuning regardless of the path you choose.

Everything else I have to say is opinion, but for me, I prefer a set it and forget it approach on a car like this. Out right performance is never going to happen on these engines, so character and drivability is where you will have fun. Good torque, free revving, smooth and consistent performance across seasons would be my goals.