Hey Aaron, @yeahmag , once upon a time you asked me about the monoball. Now I am ready for that conversation. I have resently order the new front suspension from Pelican and I am curious about holding the top of the strut on place. I know you have experience in just that I want to know what you have learned. I have seen stuff from$200 to over $800 and just like you I have no budget.
Aren't you Team Underfunded???
I surely don't want to spend the $800 of I can just make up a bushing to hold the top of the shock in place.
Thanks in advance.
Joe

I found an set of camber plates that needed new bearings for relatively cheap. I
measured the bearing and made an order from McMaster Carr. Had to do just a bit of clean up on some threads and the ID of the bearing holder, but it works. I did manage to take just a bit too much off, so the bearing has a slight amount of movement in one of the camber plates. Nothing som shim stock or the like can't fix.

Thanks Aaron, Where did you find them, The Bird board?

I honestly don't remember. I had them on the shelf for a bit before working them over and changing them out.

Click to view attachment

Thanks Aaron, nice pic it looks like you've got the wheel standing up as much as possible. I was thinking about filing the holes on the inboard side to stand them up a little more.

Joe - Rebel has a couple options for strut top monoballs, including some that replace the rubber in the stock strut top housing. Here's one. $200

https://www.rsrproducts.com/product-page/sp...ball-cartridges

Edit - if you're so inclined, you can fabricate. I did when I built my 914. Very time consuming, but you don't seem to be afraid of that . As I recall, I used some steel tubing to house the bearing, and welded that to the strut top housing. As luck would have it, the little metal spacer thingee from the stock rubber bushings fit the ID of the bearing I used. I want to say it was a 3/4" or 7/8" spherical bearing.

Typically what you will find is the side of the camber plate will hit the body first (they are usually offset on the plate to help). I can get about 2.5 degrees negative camber on the front with offset ball joints. I'm already working on a new set of front struts that will have more static negative camber in them... That's the way to go and costs $0 if you can do it yourself.

Aaron - FWIW this is exactly what Galen @ WerksII did on my car years ago - custom monoballs plus raised spindles & decambered struts. I don't recall what the camber is set at now but have not needed more (negative) thus far.

Ha! That's who I'm working with on the project!

Thanks Scott, ordered the inserts from Rebel.

This is all soo nice...You guys talked about set up and the general conclusion being the same, let's me know that I am heading in the right direction.