I want to replace the bearing dust caps on the front rotors. The lugs on the OEM part stick out too far for the wheel center cap to be inserted into the aftermarket rims.


To remove the caps, I have read to use glancing blows with a hammer. No luck with that. The only way I found how to take them off is using a flat screw driver against the rotor to pry them off.

On the right is a new VW replacement part (from CIP1.com). Same VW part number 111-405-692-B as on the 914 drawings (-691-B has a speedometer hole for the VW beetle). Both new and old measure 48mm on the ID. They seem identical except for the lugs on the OEM cap. Not sure if the lugs were for a removal tool or what. They don't seem to serve a purpose and I don't want them...

The OEM cap is not easy to put on, but a few whacks with a leather faced hammer seats it. No such luck with the aftermarket parts. Just goes crooked and nothing more. I am afraid to hammer too hard. What is too hard? - I don't want to damage anything or peel off a metal sliver off the cap that will get into the bearing. I can see where the rotor is cutting into the cap on the one I tried to put on.

Is there some secret trick to installing this? Sand and polish the new cap? magic anti seize lubricant?

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I’m not trying to be smart here but why are you replacing the cap? Oem parts always fit better. Tolerance between the new cap and the rotor sound a bit tight. Try some lube and if that doesn’t work, you can either make some clearance on the cap or the rotor or both.

No problem. I agree OEM should always fit better.

I have aftermarket rims. The plastic cap that plugs the wheel hole works in the rear but the lugs on the OEM grease cap won't let the plastic cap go in on the front. Left with nice wheels with an ugly center.

It is a cosmetic thing for the front wheel. I could paint it but they are really banged up and won't match the rears with the plastic caps.

This was an issue with the center caps we made.

They required some additional clearance to allow for the caps to fit like OEM. If you tried to use non OEM caps they would not fit.

I tried to track some down but had no luck. Do you guys stock them? I don't remember if I checked 914rubber.

I use a door skin hammer to remove the caps. Any hammer you can get under the lip or raised bumps usually works. I tried to video how to remove it using my left hand with the hammer and filmed with my right. Awkward since I'm right handed. But you can see how easily it can be removed. Using a screwdriver and hammer never worked for me. Get the hammer under the the lip like this:


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This is an '71 911 with a similar cap. On the 914 I just hit it under the raised bumps. Usually takes a few strikes and they come off like this. Just click the file.

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Good luck,

DaveB

Or a old fashioned exhaust U clamp of the right size.

I was able, on my car, to just grab the caps with my biggest pair of channel-locks and then rock the handles back and forth to work the caps off.

It didn't work on one of the two front caps on the wife's 911, though.

--DD

We don't do them for the 5 lug Fuchs as they have a trademarked logo.
Sorry

No, these would be just for the plane old stock 4 bolt setup.

We have them clearance correctly for both satin and polished. Someone did make some that are not clearanced properly and sells them, but ours do fit with stock cap. And yes, it's a tight fit.


https://914rubber.com/search/?q=wheel+cap

I recently reinstalled my OEM caps and it was very challenging.

The smallest tap with my rubber mallet tilted the cap and it would jam. The technique I finally used was to hold the cap all the way around with my fingers touching the flanges and lightly tap back and forth and side to side. That way, I could feel the cap starting to tilt in one direction or another and then adjust. It took me several attempts per cap.

Once it was started, a few deft taps seated it home.

Good Luck.

George

I was hoping for the bearing cap rather than the wheel cap, or are they the same thing?

Wheel cap is cosmetic. Bearing cap is important.

For the bearing dust cap I use a set of dust cap pliers.

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For the center cap on the 4 lug fuchs, I made an installer and remover from a PVC pipe fitting.

Went to Lowes and in the plumbing isle I found a fitting that would almost fit over the cap. I took it home and sanded it down inside until the rim rested against the flange of the cap.

The remover was just a PVC fitting turned down to fit in the center of the wheel.

Both work great!


Clay

Yes, and all I can find at 914rubber is the wheel cap.

I like the pliers... Explains the purpose of the lugs on our grease dust caps.

I am going to work on the VW beetle grease dust cap to see if I can get it to go on.
After measuring it carefully I found the aftermarket cap is 0.003" smaller in several places. Not much, but on an interference fit it can make a big difference. I will spin it on the lathe with some sand paper since there is not much to remove.

If it does go on (using GeorgeKopf's technique) then the next question is the soft foam o-ring seal replacement - mine are totally squished and no longer look like o-rings. They are not standard o-ring material. Maybe it can be made out the rear lens seal cord cut to length and glued into a ring with Loctite 404? @mikey914

Here is a 2017 thread that talks about them... Mark talks about them in the thread.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2553499

I found a large o-ring (not the soft rubber that falls apart) at my local Ace hardware store. It squished nicely between the hub and the cap. I think it cost about a dollar.

I had a hell of a time with my bearing dust covers. My buddy rigged up a sanding drum on his lathe and we bored it out a little, lubed it up and went on fine.

Take the cap to Home Depot or Lowe'sand go to the plumbing dept. Find a pvc coupling that fits over the cap, but sits on the rim. You can tap it in using the coupler with a hammer.

@vitamin914
I’m picking up this thread because I’ve decided to go with the flush fit 911 caps on my ATS wheels and the dust caps are about 5mm proud of the wheel center hole.

Did you get those aftermarket caps on and were they lower than OE dust caps?

My other option is to cut the OE cap and weld it back together… or hammer it till it has a boxer nose lol!

@Van B

Yes got them on without too much effort. A flap sanding wheel on a dremel tool took off about 0.003" (~0.1 mm) to match the OEM measurements. Smeared with Lucas Red N Tacky grease and they tapped on with a rubber mallet without problem. I also used a 48 mm ID x 3.5 mm O-ring to replace the flattened OEM sponge O-ring. I'm not sure if it is sitting too proud on the hub - the rubber O-ring does not compress like the OEM ring.

The aftermarket C1P caps look to be about 1 to 2 mm shorter than stock - I didn't have a good way to measure them. I would have to set up a height gauge that I didn't have with me. I compared it to the best OEM cap I had. Most of the other OEM caps were beaten to a flat. For me the lugs on the OEM caps were the problem... I am 3D printing new center caps for my wheels. With the lugs there wasn't enough clearance to make a cap squeeze in - I have aftermarket wheels (Millennium - Revolution Wheels, UK).

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great intel, thank you!