Hey guys it’s been a while! But I did it again,got another one 76 sitting outside a few years ran when parked lol Not really in bad shape,aside from a SEIZED eng Any great sure fire ways to unseize a 2.0 would be greatly appreciated thanks!!

Drain and change the oil.

Remove the plugs

Penetrating oil in cylinders trying to get into as many cracks and crevices as you can. But likely rust forms where water could pool, so the penetrant will get in there.

Let it sit a few hours / overnight

Put it in 5th gear and start rocking it back and forth with a few friends pushing . Let the transmission do the work for you. If it is going to break free, that will do it.

Did this years ago with an old Le Car and it ran for many years after...Learned it from an old school mechanical engineer from Yugoslavia who used to design airplanes.

Let us know if it works, or if something someone else chimes in about works...

Have to agree. If it does break free, I would suggest doing an atf wash too. Others might have a better suggestion but you don't want all that crap getting shoved through all your oil passages. You want to flush as much out as you can. Fill the thing with atf, let it sit. Roll the engine in 5th a few times. Then drain again. You will want to do a couple of quick junk oil changes after that, rolling in fifth again (jack up a wheel and spin it. Cheapest thinnest oil you can find. Then, really good oil on start up but change that stuff after 10 minutes too. May not be worth it, but you never know....

Engine rebuild - works every time

Fill the case with Marvel Mystery Oil and let it sit a few days, then drain.

My vote goes here with a rebuild, it's possible you can get her running but the odds are low and even if she runs the cylinder walls will probably be a mess.

Best of luck either way

Thanks Guys!! To be continued

The only place it really has a chance of rusting tight together are the rings to cylinders.
Remove plugs, fill the cavity with mystery oil.
Use 5th gear

First time you start it, after dumping the mystery oil, it’s going to smoke a ton.
Change the oil twice, last time with a new filter.
Drive it

Remind me not to buy any used "running" engines from you guys

Engines don't just seize. This engine was stored outdoors, and water clearly got into it.

Without even knowing exactly what the cylinders look like, I can guarantee that there will at a minimum be significant pitting in the bottoms of the cylinders where it was stuck. I've seen unacceptable pitting on the bottoms of cylinders that weren't even seized but just had condensation in them from Mid-west humidity.

Ring breakage is a very real risk in the process of getting it unstuck.

Which ever valve(s) let the water in, well, that valve and valve seat won't be so pretty either.

Finally, I shudder to think about all that rust being scrapped off the cylinder walls and ending up in the oil. I've seen cranks and oil pumps scored from pumping rust. It's real, it isn't pretty, and it will be unavoidable in this situation.

As was stated previously, I have no doubt it probably can be unstuck with the methods proposed. It can probably even made to run.

Will it ever be a good, reliable, engine? Not in my book.

So little faith superhawk...

https://youtu.be/Ctin21yrfcA

I don't agree ,man that knows his stuff and very educated reply ,issue is where the pistons and rings have stuck to the cast iron bore has basically ruined the rings ,piston ring lands and pitted the bores and as mentioned you are pumping rust if it will turn over ???.
The rings will be stuck in the pistons so the movement they need in the ring lands will be gone so compression and oil control will be very much compromised.
Then the other issue is that the engine could have been seized previous to outside storage due to overheating and lack of oil etc.
If anyone has done this and it worked it may run again but most likely not for too long after .

they filmed that in australia

I am sure a bunch of old guys will recognize this scene and it's a classic.

It's possible a formerly stuck engine will run again, but never close to spec. I'm still with the rebuild camp

If you are going to have to rebuild it and you are worried there is a complete disaster inside... Go for it. I mean, what could happen? You might have to tear it down and rebuild it? I have resurrected many a car that should have been in junk yards (or were). As long as you accept the fact it might be a disaster, you can have fun with it

But, there are ways to increase the likelihood it will be ok. You don't need to go all roadkill with it.

Based upon doing this “unlocking” several ways, the best way is leave it in the car and use chemicals to unlock it and 5th to get it moving again.

Once out of the car, it’s really hard to get the same amount of leverage safely without building some contraption.

If you are being cheap, run it a bit, do a compression check, then choose your path forward.
If you plan to rebuild it anyway, get it rotating, then (only then) remove it from the car.

I did on lock one motor already out of a 356.
It required a massive plastic tub full of chemicals and I left the block and cylinders submerged for a few weeks.
I had to cut one cylinder off the piston….it sucked.

How does it go? "rust never sleeps" how true.

In this case we have precision fit parts, different than a fender

Years ago we cut apart an Alfa engine/trans where the clutch disc had rusted to the splines of the trans input shaft. Flood car

I recently purchased a 914 with a seized 2.0 . I tried the penetrating oils with no luck. Pulled the engine and heads. Got it un-seized and back running in the car. One problem after another. I should have done a rebuild from the beginning. Running good now with a new engine.

Funny how that works. Lesson #7932 from school of hard knocks. Glad you learned the lesson and thank you for sharing the experience with others.

Some of us learned this working on seized lawnmowers and go-karts when we were 13. Others still learning on 914's I guess.

Some just have to learn for themselves. (I'm guilty sometimes )

Someone is going to get some good practice on this one. Just needs a shot or two of WD-40 and it'll be fine.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=359327

Hey guys, no luck! Which
is probably a good thing! Anybody takin the heads off in the car?

Always looking for a shortcut . . . .

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=88549

T
Thanks 996 ! Here’s the deal,got no room/space so I’m probably going to exercise my 2 option! In NJ what is a 76 914 2.0 with a stuck eng worth today? Its all there, pretty good shape for being out side a few yrs. ANY BODY WANT IT ?? Thanks

Thanks 996, Here’s the deal got no room/space so I’m probably going to exercise option #2 ! In NJ whats a 76 2.0 with a stuck eng worth today?? It’s all there, pretty good shape for being outside a few yrs. ANYBODY WANT IT?? Thanks

Sorry but not worth much,as I mentioned the bottom end could well be the cause of your problem,maybe the reason it was parked up and the PO didn't give a rats about water getting if there is any.
Anyone will be rather cautious looking @ your motor for the above reason,or are you going to on sell the whole car .

Option 2 is selling the whole car as is! What’s it worth?

Need pictures.



Rust bucket parts car - $500

Rust free California tub, perfect interior, intact electrical system, perfect transmission, with only a seized motor - maybe $10k?

I suspect it is much closer to the low end but pictures would be the only way to put a price on it.

Great info and insights!! I'm definitely in the "13 year old mini-bike / lawn mower engine repair" experience camp. Blew up a couple in my day bypassing the governors on 'em.

I recall an old ACVW mechanic saying something about removing the rocker arm assemblies as well during the Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) soaking. What is the advantage of doing so?

Regarding spark plug removal to pour in said MMO, what are some tips / tricks in getting plugs out without stripping them? I've encountered / caused a few stripped one before and trying to not cause any more.

Also, in the past I used anti-seize compounds on new plugs. Is this still OK or are there negatives in doing so? If OK, which type / brand should be used?

I like the copper high temp antiseize for plugs. Your plugs need to ground to the heads so you don’t want a compound that will block that. Otherwise there isn’t a downside. All upside.

Zach

our local mechanic fills cylinders with WD-40
he leaves the oil plug out
and when the WD-40 comes out clean
he uses wrench or screwdriver to turn over engine
he then tries to start engine
says it works most of the time
truth be known, he specializes in old tractor engines
but has brought to life any old 50 and 60's car by this method

D Rex

If it is locked, it is a core.

The only way to be sure you get an engine that will run a long time is to pull it and rebuild it.

The free2me motor was seized. It was an ordeal. was able to get the 3&4 pistons and cylinders off. PB blaster, Marvel. AFT going nowhere. I was able to split the case enough to squeeze my girl sized hand with a 14m between the case halves and remove the rod endcaps. It was ugly. P&Cs went right into the scrap bin with the rest of the scrapped chassis.

On the bright side I have a W code case for my last big 4 build.

Dupe, building my post count