Hi all,

I'm back to working on the forever project. I started looking over old items a nightmare mechanic did several years ago. I wanted to get your thoughts on a few items before I get in too deep.

Previous mechanic changed my CV joints. Didn't think to ever check them after the that. I took a look a few days ago and noticed the joints seem to be throwing a lot of grease. Boots looked OK though. After wiping some grease off the joint it looks like I might be missing the paper gasket. From watching Ian Karr's video on CV joints it looks like the paper gasket is thick and flush to the outside. Thoughts? See image below for reference.

Also, the CV bolt clamp plates seem to be missing. I'm sure the schnorr washer is missing as well.

Transmission - I'm still having issues with 3rd and 5th. I read you can carefully use a scissor jack between the back of the transmission (muffler off) and the body to push the tranny/engine assembly forward. I took a look and couldn't find a safe place to place the jack against the body without possibly bending something. The only thing there seems to be the edge of the heat shielding for the muffler. Has anyone done this that could offer direction? See second image below.

Because I don't trust anything this mechanic did back in the day, I'm posting the 3rd image to see if this is normal. The bottom of the transmission by the bellhousing has a small window that looks open. Is this correct, or is it supposed to be closed/gasketed?

Lastly, does anyone have a body shop in the Los Angeles area that knows 914s that they could recommend? Or can I buy some time from a local knowledgeable teener to take a look at her for me? I need help assessing the dreaded rust issue..

Thanks all!

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CV gaskets - YES
Plates & schoore washers - YES
Install them
The trans looks to be seated & no further back than stock.
The aperture it is for sighting & is very useful when doing a valve adjust.
Check your bushing & shifter alignment other than that may be time to dig into the box.

Thank you for the reply Rich.

I'll tear these down and see if they are destroyed. Really didn't want to add more to the to-do list, but I doesn't seem I have a choice.

Got the passenger side CV joint off. Surprisingly it did have the schnorr washers. The bolts were snug tight with no brackets. They are 2" long, are these the correct length? Image below for reference.

I'm also posting images of my trailing arms. I'm concerned they are too rusty to refurbish. Anything in specific I should look at to see they are still ok?

From what I've read it's a media blast, weld any issues, powder coat, add rubber bushing, add zerk fitting, reinstall. Did I miss anything?

Thank you!

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The threaded part should be 45mm long, which is about 1-3/4" long.

It is hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like mostly surface rust on the trailing arms. I would take a wire wheel to them, if they clean up fairly smooth, they should be fine.

Thank you 914e! I'll order new bolts.

Crap. So one CV had hex bit bolts. So i STUPIDLY assumed they all had been replaced from M8 triple square to hex bit. Nope. Bad eye sight and crud convinced my eyes the outer CV to be hex. Naturally I stripped that bolt. My extractor tools didn't help, I'll need to take the axle nut off. $#$@!

Anyone have a trick to get the C-clip off on the axle end? I got one off, no issue, but the second one spins when I tap it with a flat head screw driver. Thoughts?

Thanks all. Hope everyone is having a great 4th!

I had to look back at my old build thread. My daughter rebuilt the axle that needed cv boots a few years back. Maybe I can talk her rebuilding the other side side the transaxle is out.

I would get new C clips while you are at it at least one will end up feeling loose.

It looks she used Proto 250g retaining ring pliers.

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I had the same thing happen to me, one side was hex when I removed the transaxle about 2 weeks ago. Maybe CV joint kits at one time, supplied replacement hex socket bolts. Even worse two of the four CV joint bolts were finger tight. If they had been on the other side they would have spun out. I bought replacement bolts from 914 Rubber. predrilled for safety wire.

@914e finger tight CV bolts is a scary thought. Glad you guys caught that. Thank you for the pliers recommendation! Did she need the other pliers for something else on the car?

Ever take the axle nut off? Not looking forward to this. I'll pick up a 4ft pipe to put on the breaker bar for leverage. I also have a map torch just in case. After watching Ian's video I'm no feeling optimistic tho.

Thank again!

Axle not so difficult, you have the correct procedure, depends on the climate the car has spent the most time.

You can use a pneumatic gun, or new battery powered impact driver (my Milwaukee 1/2 works great) to remove but not for install.
Once you break the castle nut loose, leave it flush with the stub axle, you will need to tap the stub axle out, it’s the hub and bearing you need to be careful with.

There are a number of people who feel that the CV joints seal better without gaskets. But in that case, they obviously have to be drawn all the way up against the flanges. Yours didn't appear to be.

--DD

I got the axles off! 1/2" breaker bar with 6ft black iron pipe for leverage, and a few rounds of PB blaster.

In looking at the CV joints only one had the concave washer that is supposed sit behind it. Anyone have some locally I could buy and pick up this weekend?

besides @bdstone914 anyone else carry parts? I know Dylan (chitown) sold all his 914 stuff otherwise I'd ring him.

HERE

Hi @914werke

The washer I'm looking for sits behind the CV on the axle. #22 in the exploded diagram below.

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The concave washer?

Yep, i need 4. Only one CV had the concave washer, might as well replace all 4.

With stub axles out, do I need to protect the wheel bearings if I try to clean that area? It's fully caked with grime.

Clean with dry rags, maybe some brake cleaner, don’t douse it, be careful of the hub, if it pulls out of the bearing that means new bearing and it’s a real bitch to get it out and replace it.

Thanks for the info and heads up @mgphoto .

After another long pause due to life/work, I'm ready to put the axles back in. When putting the stub axles in should I grease the spline, or use anti seize? Any helpful tips/tricks to putting it back in?

Also, in getting the driver side axle out I ended up tearing out the wiring from the reverse switch. How can I test which terminal to reconnect the wire(s) to?

Thanks all, and thank you Andy!!

I use anti seize on stub axles.