If I have turbo tie rods, bought from Automotion long ago, and I need to replace the outer tie rod ends because I tore the rubber, what do I need to get? Tie rods from a 930? Any year? Or should I just buy a complete new kit for $119 at Tweeks.

I have heard about "good" and "bad" turbo tie rod kits. What part exactly is it that is bad on the cheap kits, and how do I know if what tweeks has is the good or the bad??

just get a tie rod end; the Turbo magick is the inner.

I agree.

But, for what it is worth, last year I bought a complete 930 front end out of an '87 turbo, and it did not have "turbo" tie rods, but the same tie rods that other 911s have (look just like 914 tie rods). The difference is in the inner, with the aftermarket having a ball and socket while the factory ones have a universal joint with rubber bushings. I put on new "turbo" tie rods. The outer end looks just like the factory end.

I think Pelican Parts sells just the ends. Call and ask for Dave Darling, or as a joke ask for "Darling" Dave. He is very knowledgeable, and will not lead you wrong.

I do not know for sure what the factory installed on all 930s or whether my front end came from a "turbo look" option car. I was really only after the spindles, hubs, rotors, etc., but installed the "newer" a arms and so now have 911 splines for the torsion bars.

You will have to realign your front toe-in.

QUOTE (flesburg @ Aug 4 2005, 04:11 PM)

for what it is worth, last year I bought a complete 930 front end out of an '87 turbo, and it did not have "turbo" tie rods... I think Pelican Parts sells just the ends. Call and ask for Dave Darling... You will have to realign your front toe-in.

couldda been some PO cheaped out in the prior 20 years, or couldn't get the good parts when the job needed to be done, and 'retrofitted' the standard parts.

you can call and ask for Dave, but you won't get him; he doesn't work at the Pelican location. Dave works in cyberspace, doing tech support via email and his oresence here.

if you very, very carefully measure the distance from the tie rod end centerline to the end of the rod, and screw the new one in exactly that far, you'll be really close, and of course if there is a discrepancy, you know which end to adjust. since you are preserving the orientation of the rod end (the shank points up) the farthest you *should* be off is one full turn. the bad news is that if you use this method, and you get it wrong. it's a real pain to pull that one end so you can add (or subtract) one more turn).

ever wonder how the race car guys can replace suspension bits so quickly during a race? they have pre-measured all the suspension links to be the right size. you can do the same...

{edited to reflect the fact that i looked at the picture and was reminded the shank points up ...}

I called tweeks and this guy put me on hold, then told me that I had to buy an entire kit. Must be summer intern. Pelican said that Dave doesn't work there officially, but they were able to direct me to the right part in their catalog...basically a 911 turbo outer is what need.

Oh, and since I will be screwing up my geometry (I need an alignment anyway), should I get a bump steer kit? My car is lowered (but not insanely lowered), but I never have noticed a jerking of the steering wheel over bumps.