Almost ready to wake up the 2270 after dropping the motor to change oil pump & oil pressure relief circuit. How and where did you mount the dual pole sender. I am using a braided steel hose.

Thanks in advance

Depending on the length of your braided line you can get a P clamp that fits around the sender and mount the clamp to the top corner of the fan housing, one of the coil mounting bolts on the tin above #4 cylinder, or just about anywhere you desire. Best to find a mount point on the engine and not the body so you're not causing flex and vibration in the line which can cause premature failure of the line or fitting at the engine case.

It needs to ground I believe at the mount
I once had a clamp that was loose and had to provide a ground path

True. Or if you use a braided line it grounds through the line.

go to the auto parts store and get a brass fitting with pipe threads to extend the oil pressure sending switch hole up and then screw in the sending unit

metal hose clamp with 2 mounting holes. Mount close by.

Yes it does need to be grounded

My car came with this. I was getting flaky readings and realized it was not grounded, it was loose in the mount. Came up with a kludge and I'm still looking for an elegant solution.Click to view attachment

I think I found the p clamp I used originally.Now just need to find the box that I put the senders in.

I’ve seen similar set ups fail
And don’t recommend this set up

Brass will work harden and crack over time. Usually at the threads. Especially with the sender weight on top

A flexible hose will dampen the vibration
Brant

When I ran a dual pole sensor and a larger Mallory Distributor, I had found (I forget where) a braided stainless line and made a bracket (just a length of flat steel with holes drilled at each end) to mount to the nearest case parting bolt. The NPT thread of the sensor would snug down on the bracket just as it sealed on the tapered thread.

I think it was npt at both ends (male at 1 female at he other) which isn't really the best imo, though it was allegedly made for that application. I do think the dual pole senders are all tapered thread? I maintain that the hole in the case wasn't originally.

Ground is no problem with braided line. I sleeved the bracket with shrink tube for a cleaner look.

Brian - PM sent. I would like to learn more about this setup.

This one I was planning in doing mine.

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I did it that way once. You have to modify the tin. Also the way it looks like that one is done and how I did it, you couldn't remove/replace the sender without removing the tin which is a major job. I used a VW bus ball joint boot for the grommet I recall. I went to a larger Mallory distributor, and I had to relocate it, and regretted having messed up the tin.

You will notice a lot of people that started with dual pole senders have moved back to a T joint, a sender for the pressure gauge and a stock sender for the idiot light.

The issue is that the idiot light turns on at about 4PSI, and the dual pole will light up around 10PSI. Which can mean you have a flickering oil light on a hot engine at idle, which is disconcerting.

Its one of those things where if you don't drive the car much or very long, or you make really good pressure, a dual pole is fine. But if you drive the car long enough for the oil to really come up to temp on a stock oil pump, you may find your oil light on, even though you have okay pressure.

oh wow! thank you for that info. Good didn’t cut my tin yet when I painted them.

Mine does that. I thought it was a symptom of engine age, probably needs a rebuild, it still might. Good to know the trigger pressures though. Another project to add to my list.

This is so true! I'm going to a split setup (idiot light and single pole sender). I currently have a dual pole installed and once hot, the oil pressure light flickers/comes on. It's even worse when the A/C is running which draws the rpms down a bit more.

I developed a habit of revving at stop lights just so I don't see the light flicker.

Brant... I have had hoses fail... even high pressure grease gun hoses. So I use the same setup George does. But I make sure the heavy gauge sender is off the side of the t fitting, and that it is supported with a padded clamp mounted to the engine tin. So it does not vibrate and work harden the brass.

Watching a 50 psi spray of hot oil whip the hose around and coat everything in the engine compartment with hot oil (including me) is scary.

Clay

Looking for a pic of a clean set up

I'm looking for a better way of running mine. Could you show a picture of the clamp you made? I'm having problems visualizing it.

Zach

This is a good looking setup, there was a company that made the braided line for the remote sender who’s name escapes me (Ian probably knows) but the last time I checked it was no longer available...

I used a 1/8 NPT hose, a Tee fitting and a home made bracket bolted thru a case bolt.
It's very sturdy and won't vibrate loose. Thus i retain the idiot light & gauge sender
(the red hose ties the 2 head vents together)

Barefoot


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I have something very similar, but use a stainless steel braided hose. Works perfect and also cheap

Not sure I would call it clean, but I like it. Except the zip ties, but they add at least 5hp. Gets me to work everyday. Copper. The mount for the dual pole attached to the coil mount.
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Unfortunately the 42 Draft Design block is no longer being produced.
Really clean and easy.
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Very nice piece, I think if the hose was braided stainless it’d be fairly bulletproof. I also have the rubber hose, and while it’s been fine for years, I’d like to swap it out

VERY nice job and quite clean looking, as well. That set-up appeals to the German in me! Kudos for this excellent solution! Your engine bay is clean enough to eat a Wiener Schwartwalderkuche on, LoL!

I experimented with some different set-ups to use the stock and VDO senders, but ended up with the BDO attached directly to the case. Yes, this requires sheet metal mod and can cause the oil warning lamp to come on too much, but since it also supports a pressure gauge that does not worry me.

It is THE most leak-proof and accident-proof way. Note that the VDO sender does not have tapered threads and must "bottom-out" against the case. That means the case surface must be flat, and it probably requires a machined spacer and two sealing rings.

I haven't studied the oil network, but for those using an external full flow with remote oil filter, could the block-off installed instead of the stock filter mount be a good location for the VDO pressure sensor? The switch could stay in the stock location.

I could see a nice machined aluminum block off cover with a tapped port for the VDO can. No hoses, grounded, solid and accessible from underside.

Could this work?