Is anybody using the Restoration Design Rotisserie ?
How does it work for you ?
Thanks

Build your own. Its cheaper, and if your car needs enough work that you want a rotisserie then you either know how to weld already or need practice welding the rot together if you don't.

All of the tools that you need to build the rotisserie you will need fixing the rust in your car.

Zach

I was just like you 4 years ago and the old timers gave me the same advice. Build your own. So, I built the RD rotisserie and it worked great! Would highly recommend going this route. Cost was 1/4 of what a store-bought one would have cost and was a lot stronger. Gave me a refresher in welding, too. Beware the transmission mounts on the blueprints are 180 degrees out. I didn't catch this till I went to mount the rear hoop - had to cut and reweld them on the correct way. Just look at your transmission mount and you'll see what I mean.

On a side note. I actually sold mine after I was finished with it to a guy locally. Damn if I didn't just buy another 914! Going to have to build the same rotisserie again! Looking forward to it, actually.

Good Luck!!

I built this one, some people start with a pair of hf engine stands then modify to suit needs.

https://blueskymotorsports.com/Porsche%2091...0Rotisserie.pdf

I recommend bracing the car before mounting it on a rotisserie - and certainly before you start welding on it. Here's a picture of mine a while back when I was installing the floors. Look at the bracing I have in place. It's easy to do and prevents anything from moving/twisting once you've set/verified your dimensions.

Click to view attachment

Miss post.

Thanks all.
It looks like it would make things easer.
Yes, I will build my own.
And yes on the bracing.
Have the plans for the "Restoration Design".
Was thinking about the 1 1/4" tubing. What wall thickness ? 1/8" ?

Also been thinking about adding a portable 2 post car lift. With that and the rotisserie I should be able to do most of it by myself .

Now I just need my VersaTube building. Its a 17' x 25' x 10'. Cement is in . Power is run.

@friethmiller — this shot showing the suspension mount at the front is illuminating. Any chance you can post a pic showing how it mounts at the rear?

I wouldn’t put a 914 that needs rust repair on a rotisserie.
Even bracing the doors, it’s easy to bend or twist the chassis.

Ok, here's some better pics just for you (front and rear). Couldn't find the correct length bolts so I used a bunch of washers on the front mount - ugly, I know. On the rear hoop, you can see how I had to cut and reweld the legs that go to the transmission mounts. I recommend painting it. This thing will rust if you don't and it gets all over your hands and in your primer. Just use anything that will cover the bare metal.

Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

I hear you, @mepstein . That’s why I braced on the diagonal like this. The reason you mount the car on a rotisserie is to repair the rust damage. With that said, I only went 90 degrees for the floor pan replacement. The rest of the time was spent flat or at a very handy 45 degrees.

Click to view attachment

I'm thinking about building a rotisserie in this fashion, and I have a few questions maybe someone has some insight on.

Firstly, it seems to me that the outer suspension consoles would be better than the transmission mounts for mounting the rear? Doing so would mean you not need eight ~9ft pieces of steel (requiring purchase of eight 10 ft pieces to be cut off). I haven't measured what you'd need exactly, but at most eight footers. Supporting at the suspension mounts also would seem to strain the diagonal parts of the longs less, and cause less sag in the body?

The other question I have is about use of the cross support for the steering/A arms as part of the rotisserie. I don't really have a spare piece and it seems like it would be easier to use a stout beam like a .25" wall 2 x 2 or similar to bolt to the same locations? Is there something I'm not considering why using/sacrificing the stock piece is preferable?

Having used this design, I would agree that the outer suspension points would be better. The only drawback would be in the repair of said point(s). Perhaps an alternate location could be used during this repair - be it temporary. My car was so bad, I ended up pulling both outers and replacing one of the inner consoles during my restoration. I used a jig for this to help with the inner but not the outers. I think you might be on to something here. Hope you have some CADD skills.

For the front suspension bar, you don't have to use it. However, to keep the car level with this design, you would need to fabricate something of similar dimensions. I like this idea as well. Access to your "troubled spots" and for painting should be considered as well.

Hi @nathanxnathan

This is pretty much what I have in mind, except I am going to build a body cart and then bolt the hoops to the body cart. The body cart will attach to the body at the suspension consoles in the back and the steering/A-arm cross support in the front. I bought the metal, just need to take the suspension off and get to work

So I finished the rotisserie. I now see how using the beam for the suspension saves a lot of trouble. Making the plates for the front mount was the hardest part for me.

I'm a bit disappointed though. It's very difficult to change the angle of the car and it doesn't balance on the diagonals by itself. By myself I can lift the car to the diagonal position but I'm unable to get it to the sideways position on my own.





I have the rear suspension still on so maybe if I had that off? — it has the trailing arms, shocks, rear calipers and brake discs so that is quite a bit of weight.

I did the dimensions and angles exactly as per the RD plan. I used larger casters so I offest the mounting bar up. Looking at my plan compared to the RD plan, it looks like mine sits lower, but I don't think it affects lifting it from the diagonal to the side or how it balances on the diagonal.

How I built mine
Click to view attachment

RD Plans are in this thread
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...209540&st=0

I think if the car was higher up in the hoops it might be easier. All the weight is at the bottom.

I had some help from a friend to get it on its side, but I'm racking my brain on how I'm going to get it back down.

Click to view attachment

I have made a couple of different systems for safely rolling a car over the years.

A simple couple of large square steel box section circles with with mounting points welded on. OK for things like a small pre war Fiat Topolino saloon.

For larger saloons and small commercials I made a rotisserie that worked really well. Mounted front and rear of the vehicle. But they were always for closed cars or vans. As soon as you try to mount a possibly rusty open car like a 914 it will bend like it is made out of wet cardboard. Nothing will ever fit afterwards.

I suggest the RD system is the only safe way to go. I will dig out some pictures of the other types when I get a minute.

I built the same rotisserie but the car is up higher , almost to the top and with out the suspension it’s easy to roll alone. I also welded out riggers bolted to the motor mounts & to the door braces to keep the car from wiggling. I try to add a picture

I thought I saw someone say this octagon was like $300 in steel. But I'm pricing this out and getting more like $800. Am I missing something? I'm starting to wonder if the engine stand version might be more efficient. This is really just for replacing the floor, right?

I was tempted to put the octagon version in a CAD to get miter angles as well as try to get the car up near the CG if that's not where it is. I'm guessing it's near the bumper since those with the engine stand version say it turns nicely there. Though maybe the issue is body only vs suspension etc.

I went the route of the octisserie because of its length. The "pro" style rotisserie I designed required an extra 40 inches more than the length of the car.

I used .125" wall 1.25" square, and had to use 13 10 footers. I had metal for the caster plates, crossbeam mounting plates, plate for the mounts, as well as for the reinforcements just laying around. I spent about $500.

I've been removing the undercoat — in preparation for some work on the floor, but I also have improved access to some aspects of the front clip which I'm working on. I've been tig welding everything and it's rough to squat and use the pedal so the sideways position has been a big help.

My angles are the same as the RD plan and I calculated the angles to get them to fit. Here's an Illustrator editable 1:1 scale pdf that I did.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t&id=851199

I'd say the CG is slightly above the bumper as the engine stand type rotisseries, the yoke is centered on the bumper, but they adjust to pivot from further up. Around the to pad or just above is where the CG is.

I would welcome renting one if anyone in the NE has the RD style. Sure, I could fab one up, but it's possible another member has one collecting dust and could use some extra $$.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KRFH6Q1ejj4sWEMo6
I build this ROTARY when I have to rebuild my 1957 AH

I collect some photos This Album that can help
https://goo.gl/photos/iusW4CQUUiG9Q3jA7

I built a modified tip over jig. I used the RD plan to help figure out the bottom mount and used other ideas for the wood portion. It works good. I still have my car on it and can send you some videos if you want to see it in action.

Very interested, can you share the details? pickup points.

TIA

It’s mounted just like the RD drawings. In the rear the steel rack in mounted to the trans mounts and in the front the rack is mounted to the suspension points. The wood mains are just 2x6’s bolted thru the steel and the rollover is 3/4 2’x4’ plywood. I copied where I could other ideas I saw on YouTube. The tub is only 600lbs so it’s not really not that heavy. It takes 2 people to rotate and 3 is better but my son and I do it no problem. It’s very stable. I have wheels on it (when the car is down) but if I moved it around more then a few feet I put a brace across the middle. I don’t have a middle brace when we roll it and it no problem.. and you don’t have to work around the brace. You need a 2 car space to roll it over and I have a standard 8’ ceiling with a 2x12 beam and everything clears no issues.

First roll over is a little scary.. but now I’ve had it up and down several times without fear.

One issue is the jig is a little in your way when working the wheel wells and it only rolls one way.

I think I spent about $130 to make the whole thing.

I guess I should amend my comments. On the RD plan the mount on front rack piggy backed onto the crossover bar. I eliminated that and bolted my rack directly to the mounts points on the car. Mine is not quite as strong as the front crossover has a 4 point mount and mine is just 2 bolts. I had my engineer nephew calc all the bolt strengths and sheer capacities… and it’s plenty strong enough to handle the load.

+!, given the prices of steel these days, looks like this one is the winner