QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Jul 22 2022, 12:10 AM)
You do know that you can replace the alternator without removing the engine, yes? The left-front piece of engine tin comes off just for that reason.
--DD
It has been a long time and I might not be remembering correctly, but it seems like it was still a bit PITA when I did it before. I'll give it a go though.
QUOTE(Spoke @ Jul 22 2022, 04:42 AM)
QUOTE(bbrock @ Jul 21 2022, 11:08 PM)
DF to chassis at the VR receptacle with everything off is reading open circuit.
@bbrock
This is not good. The circuit you tested is a wire to the alternator, then the brushes on the armature, then the armature to ground. So one of those items is bad. The alternator likely needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
Make sure your measurement is correct. Don't want to replace the alternator based on a measurement with an issue.
If it's the brushes, you might get some reading if the alternator is turned a bit. Maybe nudge the car in gear to slightly turn the engine/alternator. I've seen brushes give different resistance readings as the armature turns slowly. If high resistance more than 100 ohms the brushes need attention.
QUOTE
Don't know if this is relevant, but D+ to chassis reads 0 ohms.
This is looking back into the GEN light and to the power rail the GEN light is on. This is good to know the GEN light is ok. With the open circuit of DF and knowing the GEN light is good, the alternator is likely in need of repair/replacement.
This would also mean your VR's are all likely good.
Alright, I'll pull the alternator and have a look. I replaced the bearings, brushes, and slip rings when I rebuild this alternator when assembling the car, in addition to going through the testing procedure for components outlined in the FM. Probably did something stupid there. Part of the rebuilt is
documented here. Most likely I'll order a new alternator but it will be good to know what is screwed up.
Thanks for your help!