What is the best way to have my car painted, there will be a color change? Do I take it ALL APART (motor, tranny, interior, etc.) or just around the area's that will be sprayed? Does the engine bay ordinarily get the same color as the car?

depends...
if you're doing a color change, ripp it all apart
if not, it may not be needed

I'll be doing mine in phases, and mine is a color change. (Zambezi Green, can you blame me?) But most likely, I will shoot the entire body in one shot, then do the engine compartment later when the engine is dropped. Since I am a one man show, I find it better to focus on smaller, more manageable projects at a time, that way I don't rush.

I will eventually repaint my car the same color. I started with the engine bay when I was doing hell hole and battery tray repairs. Once I get the mechanicals all dialed in I will pull off the rear deck lid (It was red), rocker panels, bumpers and pull out the windows and related trim and seals then have the car sprayed including the rear trunk and door jambs.

This is a question for Brandon or other painters...

I believe best practice for a repaint is to completely remove all parts, have a professional strip, prep, and paint the complete body and parts then reassemble. Few people do this because costs would far exceed the value of the car unless it is a -6 or has historical or personal value.

Paint over paint is difficult because you may not be able to prep some surfaces and you may be covering rust that isn't apparent. I've seen alot of paint chip or flake off a repaint. You also add another thickness of paint.

The question is: can a modern repaint be as good as a well preserved factory finish that was probably dipped and baked hard? Do modern booth heaters get as hot as factory ovens? I suspect modern paints are tougher and stickier.

Another consideration is the reassembly. How many times have you had things loosen because they weren't tightened or installed properly? Do we know what the torque specs are for each bolt and screw? Did the extra paint thickness cause fit problems?

I once had a professional painter at a nice paint shop tell me that they could never get the paint as hard as an OEM finish. They can't bake it at the high enough temperatures because it would melt all the plastic on the cars. In my experience, front ends chip easier when repainted. That's why you wear a bra!


As far as paint over paint is concerned, I think you have to use your judgement. I won't strip OEM paint off because it is very good and strong. The only reason I will go into the metal is if there is rust or some body work is needed. Otherwise, I think sealing the base is fine, once it has been sanded down.