I did some poking on the forum, but didn’t find a definitive “while the engine is out” thread, other than this thread by TRS63. Which seemed somewhat specific to his car. Are there some general recommendations for what should be addressed while you have improved accessibility? Would it be helpful to consolidate a list and add it to the Lapuwali Classic Thread Forum?

In our case, we have a 1970 914-6. The engine and transmission will both be rebuilt. So those are their own projects. The chassis is in quite good shape in terms of very little rust. It has 93k miles on the odometer and has sat without moving for about 15 years.

Our priorities are safety, reliability, and originality. The list I’ve started compiling, mostly from reading books, includes the following. Roughly in priority order, in consideration of time and budget:

1. Fuel line secure and protect per recall 9J
2. Fuel line replace cloth with rubber - replace
3. Engine mount - replace
4. Transmission mounts - replace
5. Clutch, pressure plate, flywheel - replace
6. Clutch cable - replace
7. Fuel pump relocation related to TSB P213 on vapor lock
8. Voltage plate cover per recall 9K
9. Rear wheel bearings
10. CDI- refurb
11. Shocks - eval?
12. CV joint gaskets - replace
13. Fuel pump - eval?
14. Ball joints - eval?
15. Tie rod ends - eval?
16. Heater hoses - eval?
17. Brake pads - replace
18. Brake rotors - eval?
19. Brake caliper - eval?

I put brakes at the bottom, as I don’t think it matters much if the engine is out in terms of access.

What am I missing that I will regret later if I don’t address it now? Some of these I don’t know if evaluating for reuse should even be a consideration, given how long the car has sat.

Let’s “just rebuild the engine” and get it on the road has become quite a project! My goal is to get this done in time to drive it to Parade in Palm Springs 2023. Stretch goal would be to make it to the LA literature show.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

As it sits...
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Brake hoses. I had all four burst at the same time. I start with the brakes. I is too tempting to take that just one trip around the block. Plus the parking brake is more important without an engine.
I would replace the plastic fuel line in the tunnel. All the rubber and plastic is far older than it was designed to last before replacement.

Rust spots, touch up paint, engine bay seals, stainless steel fuel lines in the tunnel, replace grommets, relocate fuel pump, replace sound deadening pad on fire wall. I painted my engine bay white so when you shine a light looking for things, it brightens things up.

Rust spots
touch up paint, (I painted my engine bay white to brighten things up),
engine bay seals
grommets
replace sound deading pad on firewall
replace old plastic fuel lines in tunnel with stainless steel lines
reocate fuel pump to front
Check brake lines, are they rusty?
Battery cable to starter?
Transmission ground strap in good shape?

Change the alternator/fan belt.
Adjust the valves.


Both are much easier to do while the motor is out of the car.

Clay

I do not have an original 914 (Subie powered) so when I pull the engine and tranny, I am going to tidy up wiring and fuel lines in the engine bay.

Check to make sure the clutch cable tube is secure in the tunnel and at the firewall.
Check the engine lid brackets to see if they are secure
Check trunk lid brackets to see if secure
Check rear suspension console to be sure it is secure and not cracked
Good time to rebuild pedal set
Have alternator rebuilt locally
Check rear window to see if it is still sealed
Take a picture of you standing in the engine bay

I agree
You should replace the plastic fuel lines in the tunnel
First priority!
Easier to install stainless with the motor out

Going to echo what others have been saying. Trash those plastic fuel lines in the tunnel with stainless. Car fires suck.

Zach

In terms must for ANY car, but especially when the engine is out, I 100% agree - replacing the fuel lines in the absolute first priority.


Another one which isn't really part of the engine-out service but I bet a lot of folks have never thought about is the front windshield butyl rubber seal. I drove my car around for months with what I can only assume was the original seal completely hardened so that the windshield was only "floating" in the frame. Only realized it when I was replacing the rear-view mirror adhesive and it very clearly wasn't attached.

I don't ever recall seeing such consensus on topic at car forum! I guess I should replace the fuel lines.

Are the ones highlighted red the offenders?

• Fuel line Centre Intake pipe: 914-356-530-01 (914-6, -71)
• Fuel line Centre Return line: 914-356-513-00 (914-6, 914-4, -71)

I don't see those parts, or one that superseded them, available at any of the usual vendors. Are you left to make your own?
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Replace the plastic bushings on those rear sway bar links.
Replace brake hoses (all 4)
Replace bushings in the shift rod & at firewall
Clean up & address any rust in the engine bay area
Once again, check that clutch tube for break-away from firewall

Replace speedometer cable if necessary

GREAT list of important items to go over.

My engine is just about to go back in and I'm sure many of these have been checked off.

The new fuel lines were definitely on the top on the list.

Passing this check list on to my mechanic as well as other 914 and car buddies.

Cheers,
Margie

If in any doubt, replace or rebuild the brake pressure relief valve. This thing is nearly impossible to change out with the engine installed.

This is helpful as I have my motor and trans out (sent to rebuilders). Interesting that someone said windshield butyl - I decided this was a great time to replace my cracked windshield (and trim, clips, and buytl) while she's off the road.

@bkrantz Is there a way to test it? The car has sat for roughly 15 years without moving. I have no idea if it worked when it was parked. I guess that qualifies as doubt, and you're suggesting we should rebuild it.

I now see this is covered to some degree in the 914-6 Porsche Factory Manual: brake section Removing and Installing Brake Pressure Regulator page 3.3-1/1.

I'll look harder next time before I post a question. Thanks for the suggestion.