hi,
i'm working on a 1975 914, 1.8.
just got the car running and thought i'd see if it would move. when i press on the clutch pedal, i can hear a bunch of noise and the trans grinds when trying to get it in gear, which it will not.
so my question is, is that it, the clutch is bad? is there anything else it could be and how do i troubleshoot it? the car has been sitting in a dry climate, (arizona) for about 6 years. could it just be stuck?
thanks for any help!

Been researching clutch issues. Found this somewhere, not mine.

Do you have problems grinding gear changes, particularly going in 1st or reverse?
Because of the tension on the clutch cable it can transmit noises.
Starting front to back, it could be:
clutch pedal bushings
roll pin on the pedal pivot shaft
broken front cable trunion
pedal board stop adjustment
broken clutch cable tube, 3 places in tunnel
pulley, or pulley bushing
cable adjustment
rear cable trunion
throw out fork
cup bushing for TO fork
throw out bearing

When you start the car in gear and the clutch pushed in, does still try to move the car. If it does the clutch is not disengaging and you need to figure out why. If it does disengage how is the travel before it engages?

You hear noise when you step on the clutch or when you attempt to put it in gear AFTER depressing the clutch?

A worn out clutch disk is usually going to result in slipping when trying to move, not so much grinding on engagement.

Grinding when engaging gears is usually clutch linkage(cable, clutch fork, throwout bearing)/adjustment, shift linkage, or bad syncros in the gearbox itself.

Grinding when engaging at a dead stop though is most likely going to be clutch cable adjustment.

When in doubt, change it out. Easy job for the home mechanic and cheap parts.

Ansbacher

When in doubt, change it out. Easy job for the home mechanic and cheap parts.

Ansbacher

thanks for the replies.
i started the car for the first time today so the only history i have with the car running is from today.
the noises start when the clutch pedal in pressed. kind of a rumble. when i try to shift into 1st or 2nd, the only 2 i tried, the gears grind.
the car is at a dead stop and the gears grind AFTER i depress the pedal.
as for starting it in gear, well, the brakes are not working just yet so i have not tried to start it in gear but, i can try and see what happens.
i'll check the forum for adjustment procedure and try that any other info would be great. this is my first porsche and i'm a bit green with these cars.

Get the brakes working first.

Hope this is helpful...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1sDHWxTOxk

fix the brakes, got it.
any chance this could be a low gear oil problem?

More likely it sounds like the grumble of a bad throw out bearing
But you’ll have to adjust the clutch properly first

And brakes!

I believe the Haynes manual tells how much free play there should be at the pedal during adjustment

A clutch disk can bond to the flywheel during extended storage. Even in a dry climate.

However - don’t actually run the engine. Pull the power from the coil or remove the distributor cap to prevent it from starting and running the engine.

Then crank the engine with the clutch pushed in and 1st gear selected. If the car tries to roll as starter motor cranks - that is a sure sign the clutch isn’t releasing properly.

Do this in an area with enough open space that the car can move and won’t hit anything before you can release the starter which will stop any vehicle movement. I.e. don’t do this with a garage wall 1 foot in front of the car . . . Or behind in case of reverse gear selection.

If you have verified the clutch is adjusted properly, and this is still occurring - your clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel. We’ll deal with that later - if it indeed is the case.

Zero

Oil level has nothing to do with clutch operation.

thanks superhawk.
i'll post the outcome

hey ya'll just had a chance to spend some time on the 914 and here is a update.
got the brakes working and put the car up on stands. there is a lot of play in the shifter and the linkage so i ordered a rebuild kit for it i also ordered a new clutch cable. when i went to adjust it the nut was hand tight but i noticed that the rod threads were shot so i have another one coming. i still went ahead with superhawks advice since i had the back end in the air. i started it up in 1st gear and both wheels were turning. working the clutch there was a loud high pitch chatter that seemed to go away the more i worked the clutch. it never went away completely but i would say 60% better. also, i had a friend on the passenger side and at first, he was unable to stop the wheel from spinning but as the noise got better, he was able to stop the wheel spinning with his foot and light pressure.
also, at first i could not get it to shift into first with the car running. it would just grind. after working the clutch, i could get it in gear. it would still grind but not so much that i couldn't shift.
i realize this info is moot as i can't adjust the clutch correctly without a new cable but i thought i'd get some feedback with the new info.
if your still following this, thanks for any info you can offer.

Was the clutch engaging early in the pedal travel arc, or later toward the end. How much of the threaded rod at the end of the cable was there after the nut, a little or a lot?

Sounds an awful lot like the clutch disc was stuck to the flywheel.

You’ve basically started the process I would have suggested to break it free.

At this point when you put it on the ground and the weight and inertia of the vehicle resist motion of the wheels, it will probably loosen up even more.

Note: plan for clutch replacement in the future. When they get bonded like this it usually leaves a spot with very different friction characteristic. Don’t be surprised if the clutch shudders a bit once you get it driving. It usually will not go away on its own until the flywheel is resurfaced and the clutch disc and pressure plate are replaced. YRMV.

thanks for the replies.
NARP, the clutch engaged pretty quickly after depressing the pedal. i'd guess within the first 1-2 inches. i'm heading to the shop so i'll check it out. as for the rod, i'd say about the same. 1-2 inches. again i'll measure it when i get there and post an update.
superhawk, i had planned to put it on the ground today and try it but i was thinking it may be better to fix the bushings in the shift linkage and the cable first. what are your thoughts on that?
guess i figured i'd need a clutch sooner or later. i bought this as a barn find of sorts. drove by a house and this was shoved back in the car port you could just about see it. on a whim i left a note on it and three weeks later i got a call. the women said her brother had passed and she was selling everything. for $1500 i couldn't turn it down.
it has not seen the road since 08 so at this point i'm just trying to get it running, driving, starting and stopping before i figure out what i'm gonna do with it so for now, if i can wait on the clutch, i will.
sounds like i'd be looking at a new flywheel too or at least a resurfacing as well?
thanks for the help and i'll post a update.

I think that worn out bushings and a mis-adjusted cable put you in the same boat as 50% of the 914’s out there.

Can’t hurt to try it.

New bushings and a new cable should be the plan - so things only will get better when those are replaced.

Good work so far!

ok so update.
clutch is hopelessly stuck so i ordered a new clutch/flywheel kit from auto atlanta.
i'am not sure if i want to drop the engine or just the trans. i'm flat backin it, no lift so right now i'm thinkin i only want to drop the trans. should i drop the motor too? it would be nice to clean the engine compartment and do some general house keeping. is it just as easy to take the motor and trans out as a unit?

is it just as easy to take the motor and trans out as a unit?
[/quote]
Yes, as long as you have a hydraulic floor jack and jack stands.


Well, that’s a bummer that you didn’t get it unstuck but as stated previously - a new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel were likely in the cards anyway.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

thanks for the input superhawk. and also the pics from 914.
i do have a floor jack and stands. i'm working on it today so i'll make a decision soon and post a update too.
if i do take the whole show, i was going to buy the tangerine engine plate. any experience with that?

I don't have the tangerine plate but by all accounts, it's a great way to go - can't think you'd go wrong.

I pulled engines and trans for years without one.

Having said that my only regret is that I didn’t invent it for myself. I have one and it only made an easy job easier.

Any mid engine car is designed from the premise that the engine and trans will have to come out to do any significant service. People try to get overly creative to do work with the engine in the car when in reality it would just be simpler and cause less collateral damage to just pull the engine. It is just the way mid engine cars are.

FYI - you need to know which style of floor jack you have - pad on pin, or pad secured by screw before you order one.

It makes it much easier. Still very doable without it but it's a great purchase. Even has good resale value since it's a well proven tool.