Sitting at a stop light...in neutral...shifted to first...gear did not engage...did not hear any unusual noise...did not feel anything strange...now cannot engage any gear...75 mile tow home. I am not well versed in this arena...do I start at the gear shift/selector rod end or the transmission end?
Any suggestions for this issue are greatly appreciated!
Full Version: Broken Shift Linkage - Resolved
Try the cone screw(s) where the linkage pieces join together. Hopefully it’s still there, just backed out a bit.
QUOTE(mjsdt914 @ Sep 18 2022, 03:10 PM) 
Sitting at a stop light...in neutral...shifted to first...gear did not engage...did not hear any unusual noise...did not feel anything strange...now cannot engage any gear...75 mile tow home. I am not well versed in this arena...do I start at the gear shift/selector rod end or the transmission end?
Any suggestions for this issue are greatly appreciated!
I would start at the tranny.
QUOTE(theer @ Sep 18 2022, 04:14 PM)
Try the cone screw(s) where the linkage pieces join together. Hopefully it’s still there, just backed out a bit.
'cone screw'...as in 'tapered screw' shown as parts 23 and 26 in Fig 5-27 (page 89) of Chapter 5, Section 17 of my Haynes manual?
Cone screw up d also guess
It’s happened to a lot of people
Buy a new one when you can
They have a factory “lock-tite” that wears off after a couple of uses.
So the new one will be the permanent fix.
Replace all of the shift bushings at the same time! Then put the new cone screws in
It’s happened to a lot of people
Buy a new one when you can
They have a factory “lock-tite” that wears off after a couple of uses.
So the new one will be the permanent fix.
Replace all of the shift bushings at the same time! Then put the new cone screws in
QUOTE(mjsdt914 @ Sep 18 2022, 06:35 PM)
QUOTE(theer @ Sep 18 2022, 04:14 PM)
Try the cone screw(s) where the linkage pieces join together. Hopefully it’s still there, just backed out a bit.
'cone screw'...as in 'tapered screw' shown as parts 23 and 26 in Fig 5-27 (page 89) of Chapter 5, Section 17 of my Haynes manual?
Yes - exactly. Most likely culprit is #26, at the joint just outside the firewall. Good luck
QUOTE(brant @ Sep 18 2022, 04:38 PM)
Come screw up d also guess
It’s happened to a lot of people
Buy a new one when you can
They have a factory “lock-tite” that wears off after a couple of uses.
So the new one will be the permanent fix.
Replace BBC all of the shed ft bushings at the same time!
Thanks, unfortunately I do not understand your advice...?
QUOTE(brant @ Sep 18 2022, 04:38 PM)
Cone screw i would also guess
It’s happened to a lot of people
Buy a new one when you can
They have a factory “lock-tite” that wears off after a couple of uses.
So the new one will be the permanent fix.
Replace all of the shift bushings at the same time! Then put the new cone screws in
Spell corrected
Does the shifter move in the regular H pattern? If not, the problem is in the linkage. Could be a cone screw coming adrift, could be the firewall bushing falling apart, could be the bushings in the shift coupler coming apart, could be the bushing in the shift rod head failing, or similar. Could even be something like the gear shift lever getting disconnected from the front shift rod in the center tunnel.
If you do have the H pattern still, you may have a clutch problem, or one of your axles may have been disconnected from the transmission or the wheel hub. (Open diff means a disconnected axle results in no drive forward.)
--DD
If you do have the H pattern still, you may have a clutch problem, or one of your axles may have been disconnected from the transmission or the wheel hub. (Open diff means a disconnected axle results in no drive forward.)
--DD
I would bet on the shift coupler, when it goes completely limp I have found it's the coupler directly to the rear of the firewall
Early car, roll pin inside transmission at the tail, later model cone screws.
Also check the shifter coupler under the inspection plate between the seats. Check cup bushing under the shifter.
Also check the shifter coupler under the inspection plate between the seats. Check cup bushing under the shifter.
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Sep 19 2022, 02:59 AM)
Does the shifter move in the regular H pattern? If not, the problem is in the linkage. Could be a cone screw coming adrift, could be the firewall bushing falling apart, could be the bushings in the shift coupler coming apart, could be the bushing in the shift rod head failing, or similar. Could even be something like the gear shift lever getting disconnected from the front shift rod in the center tunnel.
If you do have the H pattern still, you may have a clutch problem, or one of your axles may have been disconnected from the transmission or the wheel hub. (Open diff means a disconnected axle results in no drive forward.)
--DD
No regular H pattern...thanks for the advice!
QUOTE(930cabman @ Sep 19 2022, 07:58 AM)
I would bet on the shift coupler, when it goes completely limp I have found it's the coupler directly to the rear of the firewall
It is completely limp...thanks for the advice!
QUOTE(mgphoto @ Sep 19 2022, 09:04 AM)
Early car, roll pin inside transmission at the tail, later model cone screws.
Also check the shifter coupler under the inspection plate between the seats. Check cup bushing under the shifter.
1974...I'll be checking the cone screws and bushings...thanks for the advice!
Grab a flashlight and crawl underneath. Grab the shift rod and move it around. The problem should be easy to see
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