QUOTE(DennisV @ Oct 2 2022, 01:54 AM)
Does anyone have first-hand experience refurbishing their engine shroud that they can share? Best practices? Lessons learned?
I bought the best (err only) original engine shroud that I could find that I think is correct for our engine. Thanks for the
guidance on that. It might work as is, but it could sure use some help. Faded. Cracks. Etc.
I've done some searching, but the best resources I've found so far are
boat repair videos.
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentClick to view attachmentOk having worked in most types of fiberglass for a fair while I suggest remove the broken cooler duct and repair it first,grind out the hole from the inside and remove all the fractured area's with a grinder,clean the part as much as possible then apply several layers of painters tape on the outside to get the shape back for your repair.
Them mix up polyester resin and apply to the inside with chopped strand matt layed into it,just a few layers to hold the shape,you can build it up later to get the original thickness,when thats done remove the tape and apply a thin layer of filler to correct the shape.
Leave the part off for the meanwhile as it makes the rest of the shroud repair and painting easier,apply the same process of repair to that part in area's that are damaged.
It is very important to clean these area's as oil can be present on these parts and will effect the quality of the repair and final painting.
I used acrylic enamel on my shroud and it has lasted well and provides a shine similar to the original gelcoat that was used when this part was molded.
You will need the following ;
small tin of 1k paint thinner/reducer for cleaning,
a small fiberglass boat repair kit with will usually include some chopped strand matt,the GP resin and hardener (MEKP) ,will be in that kit,
a small tin of acetone for cleaning parts ,brushes,hands etc,
drylube sand paper ,80 grit,220 ,320 the 400 for final sanding before primer,
1 x colour matched grey spray can for cooler ducting ,
1 x black spray can,
1 x spray can of Ik primer,
masking tape,
small tin of lightweight polyester filler,
pop-rivets and backing washers to refit ducting after painting,
throw away cloves and other consumables.
Make sure your working temp is suitable and the humidity is low,resin is generally 1-2 % dependent on temperature,take your time and you will get good results,mine came out really nice,good luck Dennis.