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bd1308
i have a 74 914, and there is a 911 for sale--1974.

no oil leaks on the 911 and what-not. they want 7900 for it.

tell me all about 911s....
Joe Ricard
Buy it and swap all that tail dragger stuff into the teener.

OH BTW DON'T LET AUGUST SLIP BY. I got the inch to build another motor. and the 1.7 is going to give up the case.
7391420
74's have the 2.7 liter engine which is generally considered the worst 911 engine. 74's didn't have the smog equipment that the 76-77's did, which made those engine's much worse because they run hot and wear out fast. That being said the 74's still had the 2.7 which has not proven to be as reliable as the later sc and carerra motors. If the engine has been re-built (correctly!) and the car is otherwise solid, it could be a good deal. Just realize that most 911 people think that the 74-77 cars kind of suck and arent worth much, so when the time comes to sell you can loose your shirt real fast....
bd1308
ohmy.gif
lapuwali
The '74 is certainly the best of the 2.7s stock. The ('72-'73) 2.4s are generally more expensive in similar condition, which is an indication of how people feel about the 2.7s. Once the 2.7 is rebuilt, though, it's a very nice engine.

The '75-'77 cars had more smog stuff, some of which was lethal to the engine. In place of catalytic convertors, a small number of manufacturers chose to use thermal reactors, which were big lumps of cast iron forming the exhaust manifolds, air injected to promote combustion of any remaining HCs after they'd blown out the exhaust valve. This generated tremendous heat, and tremendous underhood temps that cooked everything. Just the thing you need on an air-cooled engine...What the Porsche engineers were thinking, I have no idea. After the company was nearly bankrupted from warranty problems and the general unhappiness with the brand (911s that blew up, the 928 that just didn't push enough people's buttons, and the 924), Porsche wised up and switched to catalytic convertors with the SC, also using the Al case of the 930, which resulted in one of the most reliable engines they've ever made.

As for the general 914 v 911 thing, you need to drive a 911. They're very different cars from the 914. The newer the car, the heavier it will be, and the less of a "sports car" it will be.
Mueller
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 8 2005, 09:47 AM)
i have a 74 914, and there is a 911 for sale--1974.

no oil leaks on the 911 and what-not. they want 7900 for it.

tell me all about 911s....

sorry, they don't make single carb kits for the 911 biggrin.gif

if you can barely afford to fix the 914, forget about the 911...
SGB
914= 2 seater gokart
911= 2.5 seater automobile

Right now I need 4 seats in an automobile. Maybe somday....

redshift
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 8 2005, 12:47 PM)
i have a 74 914, and there is a 911 for sale--1974.

no oil leaks on the 911 and what-not. they want 7900 for it.

tell me all about 911s....

The one to get is the Factory RSR LW, it screams.


M
tat2dphreak
QUOTE (Mueller @ Aug 8 2005, 12:34 PM)
QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 8 2005, 09:47 AM)
i have a 74 914, and there is a 911 for sale--1974.

no oil leaks on the 911 and what-not. they want 7900 for it.

tell me all about 911s....

sorry, they don't make single carb kits for the 911 biggrin.gif

if you can barely afford to fix the 914, forget about the 911...

agree.gif a 911 motor rebuild is more than a decent complete 914... chew on that...
redshift
Hey, you can buy nice 911s for the cost of a /4 rebuild, as well..

chowtime.gif

wink.gif


M
bd1308
i like the go-kart feel.

911s will be around for a long time.

914s will not.
ArtechnikA
a '74 with no leaks has no oil -- tread carefully.

911's didn't get the zinc-coated steel until 1976; early cars rust like 914's do.

'74 was the first of the short-hood cars. a 49-state '74 might be okay. early CIS definitely had its quirks tho.

just remember that all early 911's are $15,000.
all mid-year (SC-era) 911's are $25,000.

you will either pay it up front, or you will pay it within the first year or so of ownership.

there are several good books on buying used 911's; get one, read it.

i really like my 911 but i do not think it would be a good choice for you until you get more mechanical experience. they are not "do first, ask questions later" cars. and with the possible exception of window-winder handles, there will be no parts for them available at the local VW store. there will be damn few parts for them at the FLAPS. ANY FLAPS, with the possible exception of a few in SoCal where 911's are parked 3-deep at the grocery store. even those may not have anything older than the SC.

i buy oil at the Pep Boys - that's *it* for local sources. everything else comes from an online source. that means you have to learn to plan everything all the way through, including all the contingencies for things that might go wrong or that you will find "while you're in there," and have parts and tools lined up and ready to go -- or be willing to have the car parked a week until parts arrive.

they are very reliable and parts don't break very often. the other side of that coin: reliable parts are expensive when you need them.
bd1308
QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Aug 8 2005, 12:08 PM)
a '74 with no leaks has no oil -- tread carefully.

911's didn't get the zinc-coated steel until 1976; early cars rust like 914's do.

'74 was the first of the short-hood cars. a 49-state '74 might be okay. early CIS definitely had its quirks tho.

just remember that all early 911's are $15,000.
all mid-year (SC-era) 911's are $25,000.

you will either pay it up front, or you will pay it within the first year or so of ownership.

there are several good books on buying used 911's; get one, read it.

i really like my 911 but i do not think it would be a good choice for you until you get more mechanical experience. they are not "do first, ask questions later" cars. and with the possible exception of window-winder handles, there will be no parts for them available at the local VW store. there will be damn few parts for them at the FLAPS. ANY FLAPS, with the possible exception of a few in SoCal where 911's are parked 3-deep at the grocery store. even those may not have anything older than the SC.

i buy oil at the Pep Boys - that's *it* for local sources. everything else comes from an online source. that means you have to learn to plan everything all the way through, including all the contingencies for things that might go wrong or that you will find "while you're in there," and have parts and tools lined up and ready to go -- or be willing to have the car parked a week until parts arrive.

they are very reliable and parts don't break very often. the other side of that coin: reliable parts are expensive when you need them.

no zinc-coating.....no moolah

thats what i was looking for

thanks.
mudfoot76
QUOTE (lapuwali @ Aug 8 2005, 12:30 PM)
As for the general 914 v 911 thing, you need to drive a 911. They're very different cars from the 914. The newer the car, the heavier it will be

agree.gif

Owning a '73 teener, and having driven a bone stock '74 911 (as well as right seat time on a track), these are two totally different beasts. Acceleration (measured via the always accurate seat-of-the-pants method) feels about the same, but it is the handling that really sets the two apart. All the horror stories about snap-spins gained valuable perspective riding around in the 911 on a track. It was unnerving to feel the rear of the car slingshot around the corners. It never really felt like it was planted, whereas we all know the teener feels like it corners on rails. As if the 911 was telling us 'you only think you are in control'...maybe the person I was riding with wasn't as good of a driver either, but that car felt like it was taunting all the way around the circuit 'go ahead, just lift the throttle a little bit through that left-right-left section, i dare ya!'


bd1308
i can do curves around 55 limit twisties at over 70 all night long....


the 914 is fun, i really like it. I would really like to keep it for many years to come.

throttle-lift oversteer

thermal-reactor

im still sticking to the 914 like glue paste sticks to the inside of little kid's mouths.
tat2dphreak
QUOTE
im still sticking to the 914 like glue paste sticks to the inside of little kid's mouths.


more like the lead paint on the window seals you chewed on as a kid... wink.gif
Joe Bob
911s shrink yer winky.... dry.gif
ArtechnikA
QUOTE (SEEMORE BUTZ @ Aug 8 2005, 03:32 PM)
911s shrink yer winky...

yes.

best to start with more than you need before you buy ...
bd1308
hey, a kid had to do what a kid had to do. it was soft...and cold, much like the other side of the pillow.
Gint
You gotta be kiddin...
TimT
$7900 sounds like a reasonable price, double, triple quadrruple check for rust!! An engine rebuild is cheap in comparison to major rust repairs on early 911's, If you can get a maintenance history for the car that will tell you if any updaters have been made to the engine, ie case savers installed etc.

I have both a 911 and a 914.. I actually like driving my 911 better than the 914, its hard to drive an old 911 fast, its a challenge, but when you get it right, its very rewarding..

Older 911s make good daily drivers. I commuted to NYC for about 3 years in a '69 911 I had very reliable..

Get a thorough PPI on the car.. it will be $250 well spent
TimT
$7900 sounds like a reasonable price, double, triple quadrruple check for rust!! An engine rebuild is cheap in comparison to major rust repairs on early 911's, If you can get a maintenance history for the car that will tell you if any updaters have been made to the engine, ie case savers installed etc.

I have both a 911 and a 914.. I actually like driving my 911 better than the 914, its hard to drive an old 911 fast, its a challenge, but when you get it right, its very rewarding..

Older 911s make good daily drivers. I commuted to NYC for about 3 years in a '69 911 I had very reliable..

Get a thorough PPI on the car.. it will be $250 well spent
theol00
agree.gif

$7900 sounds like a very reasonable price. Have a reputable Porsche shop do an complete buyers inspection withe a leakdown test on the motor - if you are lucky it has been rebuild properly and gotten the necessary modifications to make the 2,7 last. i.e chain tensioners etc... and have them check for rust in the chassis. If its clean you might be up to something great. If not run the other way.

I have 2 911s and a 914. They are very differnet animals - but both are great fun to drive. beerchug.gif


carr914
Get it and join my club I'vegot274sandnowIdon'thavemoneyclub.com. I've got a 74 914-6 conversion and a 74 Carrera Lightweight. Money is overrated anyway. $7,900 doesn't sound bad. I just hope it isn't that babyshit brown they made in 74.

T.C.
Red-Beard
Dr. Evil's conversion engine came from a 1974. Ask him about the pulled studs, etc. And that engine had been rebuilt, just not right.

2.7l 911 rebuild: Re-ring, re-bearing, basic freshed, valve seats, valves, and have the case modded, $3000.
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