Finally chased down a horn slip ring to use with my 8002 MOMO hub adapter.
Came to my attention that the original slip ring didn't have a post like the one Dansk is offering now. It's a fair piece but nothing to write home about.
Needed to cut the post so that the ring would center on the hub and all attaching holes would align. No other way around this.

Here's what it looks like when cut. Will seal the ends with additional sealing shrink wrap. Ends are attached but nothing special. Some light soldering won't hurt.

IF there is a better one out here that "someone" hasn't used the original VW part number on it to advertise I'd like to know.


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You also get to remake the contact wire. One end won't work on a MOMO button. I made an entire new wire.

End for slip ring is close to original size and fits fine. Goes without saying the other end will definitely fit!


HORN BUTTON CONNECTOR - too small
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ORIGINAL WIRE
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NEW WIRE
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Once it's all button up (I need 3.5mm machine screws; who thought that up?) I'll post the finished product. On the fence on the wheel.
Have an original #1 Moto and a bunch of nice ones from the late 70's.
Why doesn't MOMO make a MOD 7 without the "drifter yellow centering stripe" is beyond me. I really like the 70+mm dish which doesn't necessitate an extension to move the wheel back.

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You can try these guys for a horn slip ring

/classicgarage.com/s5904.html

I got one of theirs. It was less than good having made several trips around the world with ball bearings and nails in the box.
They didn't have any others.

The 8002 I ended up with is fits perfectly. I didn't want to remove the slip ring (cancelling device) from my original wheel. This one is going to be fine once McMaster-Carr comes through with the "what in the heck?!" 3.5mm x .60 screws.

Best laid plans shot to heck.


The hub and the "new" Made in "&??$" slip ring don't get along.
Even with the "conduit" piece cut off the terminal on the slip ring makes alignment of the 3 screws an issue. Some milling on the hole didn't really help a lot. I'm going to order one of the new collapsable models if someone at the selling source can tell how the canceling/slip ring works. I haven't seen a good description. I enlarged a photo from one seller which came back as a 9800 which is for VAZ Lada Kalina Priora #9800.

Listed as an 8002 it's marked 9800
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Not sure how this one works?
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If I can find one of these it would be great!

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Apparently there are 2 versions out here for a slip ring.. The Dansk $10 special or one that's is supposed to be better.

I'll post photos of the next one.

In the meantime I used the Dansk piece after repairs were effected to move the area where the post for the horn wire attaches. I took it apart but upon re-installation of the ring most of the tabs broke.
Chinese quality. I've seen drill bits that bent or came apart referred to as "Chinesium". Apparently, similar metallurgy.

3M Fusor to the rescue. Sets in about a minute and requires about a half hour to get to the point it can be sanded. Best plastic welder I've ever used.
Once it set up I ground down excess and created a smooth back. Installed it on the 8002 "solid hub" and made arrangements to keep the wire from making any contact with the body of the hub going so far as to sleeve it through the passage to halt chaffing.

Golden now.

I have this as well as some late 70's offerings. No decision made yet. I don't want to use a new wheel because it's not in keeping with the patina/character of a 50 year old car.
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FINALLY!!!

Here is what your want to buy if in the market for a Slip Ring.
This one was supplied by Auto Atlanta. Thanks for the input from the parts department. Easy decision.

It's a little more money but NOT worth grousing over as the fit finish are in another league compared to the Dansk part. It's also made in Germany.

Thank you AA!

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