So, finally after 10 years we are getting it put back together. Things are progressing OK, many issues but things are moving forward to the point where I need to think about what to do when it comes time to put in the engine.
I little history: 75' 2.0 with 62k miles. the PO had replaced the FI with weber carbs but had put the FI in a box. The strategy for the rebuild is to get the car from parts in a box to functioning. The debate about FI vs. Carbs will wait for another time (we did put both SS fuel lines in the tunnel). So we are putting the Webers back on initially.
Here is my engine question: I have 3 engines. Behind door #1 is the 62k engine running fine when car was disassembled. A 75' 2.0. The issues with this, is the emissions crap that was done to the heads. When I realize the emissions crap, I was like WTF what are these tubes?? this engine has no heat exchangers but some kind of exhaust system that eliminate the heat for the HVAC system. Has full engine tin, alt, etc.
Behind door#2 is a late 73' 2.0 core with no tin.
behind door#3 is 74' 1.8 that has been apparently upgraded with a big bore kit. This engine has SS heat exchangers.
So what do I do????
1. just spray WD-40 in the spark plug hole of the original and cross my fingers?
2. rebuild the 73' and put the 2L sheet metal from the original engine on it (it would fit right??)?
3. I can't see a scenario where the 1.8 works. Maybe trade heat exchangers for one to fit on the 2.0s, rebuild and sell it.
4. or put the heads from the 73' on the original engine?
My tech (son) is really getting tired of putting on seals and is jonesing to rip into redoing an engine.
please advise
Full Version: What should I do about the engine?
QUOTE(Type 47 @ Nov 30 2022, 06:11 PM) 
So, finally after 10 years we are getting it put back together. Things are progressing OK, many issues but things are moving forward to the point where I need to think about what to do when it comes time to put in the engine.
I little history: 75' 2.0 with 62k miles. the PO had replaced the FI with weber carbs but had put the FI in a box. The strategy for the rebuild is to get the car from parts in a box to functioning. The debate about FI vs. Carbs will wait for another time (we did put both SS fuel lines in the tunnel). So we are putting the Webers back on initially.
Here is my engine question: I have 3 engines. Behind door #1 is the 62k engine running fine when car was disassembled. A 75' 2.0. The issues with this, is the emissions crap that was done to the heads. When I realize the emissions crap, I was like WTF what are these tubes?? this engine has no heat exchangers but some kind of exhaust system that eliminate the heat for the HVAC system. Has full engine tin, alt, etc.
Behind door#2 is a late 73' 2.0 core with no tin.
behind door#3 is 74' 1.8 that has been apparently upgraded with a big bore kit. This engine has SS heat exchangers.
So what do I do????
1. just spray WD-40 in the spark plug hole of the original and cross my fingers?
2. rebuild the 73' and put the 2L sheet metal from the original engine on it (it would fit right??)?
3. I can't see a scenario where the 1.8 works. Maybe trade heat exchangers for one to fit on the 2.0s, rebuild and sell it.
4. or put the heads from the 73' on the original engine?
My tech (son) is really getting tired of putting on seals and is jonesing to rip into redoing an engine.
please advise
Well... You're in a bit of a conundrum. How much time & money do you want to spend? I had a Jensen Healey years ago that was really "beyond" repair. I donated the car to a charity & took a 5 K$ tax deduction. I put all the spare parts in the car & they came & towed it away with no questions asked. They of course wanted a signed over title. Happy holidays. BTW, I used to work for McDonnell Douglas.
I’d work with the known running engine first, after 10 years I’m sure you’ll want to drive it, it should give you some inspiration to finish what you started.
Is the 75 engine the original engine to the car? Either way, make your upgrades to either of the other two then swap out and store the 75 if original to car, or if not sell what you don’t want/need.
Is the 75 engine the original engine to the car? Either way, make your upgrades to either of the other two then swap out and store the 75 if original to car, or if not sell what you don’t want/need.
QUOTE(infraredcalvin @ Nov 30 2022, 06:56 PM)
I’d work with the known running engine first, after 10 years I’m sure you’ll want to drive it, it should give you some inspiration to finish what you started.
Is the 75 engine the original engine to the car? Either way, make your upgrades to either of the other two then swap out and store the 75 if original to car, or if not sell what you don’t want/need.
I agree. This is good advice if you want to pursue this project. On the other hand, there's better things to do in life if the project is overwhelming. This is what I "suggested" in my previous post. So much for my philosophy...
Wow. Here comes Christmas & 2023. I wish you & yours the very best.
If you have the stock motor then focus on it. The emissions holes can easily be plugged and even in California a 75 is emissions exempt.
I say put in the big bore 1.8 with SS heat exchangers while you prepare the original engine for re-installation.
Get a running driving car and after getting some enjoyment, build a 2056 with Webers.
Go with whatever gets you on the road fastest. That may depend a bit on finances, but if you have enough kit with one of the engines to just bolt it on and start it, that is the way to go. I like building engines too, but driving a 914 is even better. I will also say that having installed a 3.2 I am worried about how much I will want to drive the other 914, a 2056 in for major sheet metal transplants. More power seems worthwhile in a car built to drive and drive and drive.
You can use the original engine to get the car running while you rebuild one of the other engines.
Engine tin is, for the most part, engine tin and can be mix-and-matched pretty well. The exception is that the 2.0 over-cylinder tins (all years) have the spark plug holes in a different spot than the 1.7/1.8 tins. There is also some difference with the tins that go from the side of the sump to the heat exchangers, due to the 75-76 exhaust being so different, and also a change from the early tail-shift cars to the later side-shift cars on one under-engine piece to make room for the shift linkage.
The 1.8 SSIs should bolt up to the 2.0 engine. If you have a muffler hanger and muffler that match the exchangers, then they will bolt right on and you can run them. The heater hardware is different between the 75-76 cars and the 70-74 cars, though. So if you want heat you will have to source the appropriate bits.
--DD
Engine tin is, for the most part, engine tin and can be mix-and-matched pretty well. The exception is that the 2.0 over-cylinder tins (all years) have the spark plug holes in a different spot than the 1.7/1.8 tins. There is also some difference with the tins that go from the side of the sump to the heat exchangers, due to the 75-76 exhaust being so different, and also a change from the early tail-shift cars to the later side-shift cars on one under-engine piece to make room for the shift linkage.
The 1.8 SSIs should bolt up to the 2.0 engine. If you have a muffler hanger and muffler that match the exchangers, then they will bolt right on and you can run them. The heater hardware is different between the 75-76 cars and the 70-74 cars, though. So if you want heat you will have to source the appropriate bits.
--DD
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Dec 1 2022, 11:02 AM)
You can use the original engine to get the car running while you rebuild one of the other engines.
Engine tin is, for the most part, engine tin and can be mix-and-matched pretty well. The exception is that the 2.0 over-cylinder tins (all years) have the spark plug holes in a different spot than the 1.7/1.8 tins. There is also some difference with the tins that go from the side of the sump to the heat exchangers, due to the 75-76 exhaust being so different, and also a change from the early tail-shift cars to the later side-shift cars on one under-engine piece to make room for the shift linkage.
The 1.8 SSIs should bolt up to the 2.0 engine. If you have a muffler hanger and muffler that match the exchangers, then they will bolt right on and you can run them. The heater hardware is different between the 75-76 cars and the 70-74 cars, though. So if you want heat you will have to source the appropriate bits.
--DD
Dave, this is some really good info on the engine tins. It will help a lot.
QUOTE(windforfun @ Nov 30 2022, 07:19 PM)
QUOTE(infraredcalvin @ Nov 30 2022, 06:56 PM)
I’d work with the known running engine first, after 10 years I’m sure you’ll want to drive it, it should give you some inspiration to finish what you started.
Is the 75 engine the original engine to the car? Either way, make your upgrades to either of the other two then swap out and store the 75 if original to car, or if not sell what you don’t want/need.
I agree. This is good advice if you want to pursue this project. On the other hand, there's better things to do in life if the project is overwhelming. This is what I "suggested" in my previous post. So much for my philosophy...
Wow. Here comes Christmas & 2023. I wish you & yours the very best.
same wishes hear as well.
As far and the car goes, it won't be getting donated any time soon. Not really over my head, just waited too long to start putting it back together. I've owned a 914 since 77' but have not really driven one since this one get taken apart. Here is where we are at with it today.
Click to view attachment Click to view attachment
QUOTE(worn @ Dec 1 2022, 10:08 AM)
Go with whatever gets you on the road fastest. That may depend a bit on finances, but if you have enough kit with one of the engines to just bolt it on and start it, that is the way to go. I like building engines too, but driving a 914 is even better. I will also say that having installed a 3.2 I am worried about how much I will want to drive the other 914, a 2056 in for major sheet metal transplants. More power seems worthwhile in a car built to drive and drive and drive.
I agree, I think a 2056 is in the future, but we are about 2 weeks away from the main step of putting the engine back in and getting running again.
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(infraredcalvin @ Nov 30 2022, 06:56 PM)
I’d work with the known running engine first, after 10 years I’m sure you’ll want to drive it, it should give you some inspiration to finish what you started.
Is the 75 engine the original engine to the car? Either way, make your upgrades to either of the other two then swap out and store the 75 if original to car, or if not sell what you don’t want/need.
yes, the 75 is out of the car and also should have 62k miles on it. I have a feeling that it will be eventually store, but I again getting it back in the car while I figure out what to do with the other engines.
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(Jett @ Nov 30 2022, 07:26 PM)
If you have the stock motor then focus on it. The emissions holes can easily be plugged and even in California a 75 is emissions exempt.
the emissions may be plugged already during the PO conversion to carbs. I will check thanks!
QUOTE(930cabman @ Dec 1 2022, 03:59 AM)
Get a running driving car and after getting some enjoyment, build a 2056 with Webers.
will the 40 IDF Webers, that's on it now, work with a 2056?
I'm in a very similar situation as the OP with multiple engines and plenty of plans and options.
As others have mentioned, go with the engine that is closest to get you driving the car.
Focus on one engine and one only, then you can think about the other builds if still needed.
And if I were to start from scratch, I would just bring the original engine to a reputable builder and have him do it. I.E. not gather other engines and buy parts to rebuild 2-3 engines. Once you start doing stuff yourself and you get overwhelmed with the project or life, it's very hard to bring your parts to a builder and ask him to just assemble what you have (which is understandable).
As others have mentioned, go with the engine that is closest to get you driving the car.
Focus on one engine and one only, then you can think about the other builds if still needed.
And if I were to start from scratch, I would just bring the original engine to a reputable builder and have him do it. I.E. not gather other engines and buy parts to rebuild 2-3 engines. Once you start doing stuff yourself and you get overwhelmed with the project or life, it's very hard to bring your parts to a builder and ask him to just assemble what you have (which is understandable).
QUOTE(mihai914 @ Dec 2 2022, 06:06 AM)
I'm in a very similar situation as the OP with multiple engines and plenty of plans and options.
As others have mentioned, go with the engine that is closest to get you driving the car.
Focus on one engine and one only, then you can think about the other builds if still needed.
And if I were to start from scratch, I would just bring the original engine to a reputable builder and have him do it. I.E. not gather other engines and buy parts to rebuild 2-3 engines. Once you start doing stuff yourself and you get overwhelmed with the project or life, it's very hard to bring your parts to a builder and ask him to just assemble what you have (which is understandable).
All very true, especially if it was just me. fortunately, I have my son helping who is an automotive technician. My other son is a Gold Meister certified Porsche technician but is very busy and doesn't live close by.
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