I have an awesome 2056 motor. Problem is, its too racy. It doesnt really come on cam until 4000 rpm, then it pulls like a horse to 6500rpm. hi compression, either 10.5:1 or 11:1, depending on whose notes on the build sheet I believe.

Sine I am done racing this car fulltime, and motor only has 30 hours on it since a refresh, I am hopeful that replacing the cam and lowering compression will be enough to make this streetable. of course, there will be more tuning involved than this, but, basically, those will be my first two steps.

I have chosen a Webcam 86a, with new drilled lifters. I can pretty much estimate all the costs associated with this except, splitting the case and replacing cam.

What do you think a good builder, like Jorge at European Motorworks, would charge for that part of the process?

Highly subjective to the builder. I had my bottom end done by a local up here in WA, and believe it was around $200 for labor for the whole thing. Took him just a shortblock and did the P/C's myself. It's his side gig where he's the sole employee, so I'm not sure how that translates to someone like EM trying to run a shop with multiple employees and all. Best bet would be to call around to get a better idea. Depends a bit on how much they would be breaking down and reassembling.

Call Jorge and ask?

I have been trying. no answer. I will keep trying.

If you are not replacing the crank or bearings, just the cam, its not THAT much work.
Mostly just splitting the case and cleaning everything before resealing. The only tricky part would be replacing to dowel pin in main bearing 1. Could be done in a day, or a weekend if you are REALLY being careful.

Seriously, if you can do the top end, you can take apart and put back together the bottom end. Keep it clean and you have most of the battle won.

Zach

What do you think a good builder, like Jorge at European Motorworks, would charge for that part of the process?
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He assembled a long block for me for $1200 labor.
Depends on how assembled it is when you take it to him.

$3.k to break it down, change out the cam and reduce your C/R What are you thinking for C/R?

I am probably going to be 9:1 or 9.5:1, just lower enough that I can run pump gas. right now having to use 110. how to get compression down will be determined once we see what we have. I have the build sheet, which specifies the pistons are flat top. so, will it be new P&C's, some head work, dish the current pistons, or just shim the barrels. dont know yet.

thanks for your price estimate. thats a reasonable amount.

Unless there is an issue with your pistons and jugs, I would just re-ring while you have it apart and rehone the barrels. You can always raise the deck height with base shims, and it does not take much.

Once you have the head volume, you will have all the things needed to calculate your target deck height in order to get your proper CR.

But, if you are using cut to length steel pushrods you will likely need to make a new set for the slightly spaced out cylinders. Not hard at all, but a bit time consuming. And its possible that your current pushrods are still in spec depending how far the barrels have to move to get your correct deck height.

BTW, your build sheet may have the CC value for the head volume - but I would still remeasure - lots of threads on how, including one I did. On my engine the volume written on the heads were several CC off, and that has a big effect on the calculated CR.

Zach