I recently got a Quickjack 7000 TLX. I need the long X model to reach the jack points on my other vehicles. But I have failed to lift the 914.

My first attempt had the Quickjacks in the "official" positions, i.e. with the lower base pivots forward. Note this is not what I consider safe for 911s and probably for 914s, since the car center of gravity can end up outside (behind) the end of the lower base.

But the rear jack point is far forward of the lifting pad, even with the pad as far forward as possible.

The front jack point and pad look OK.

But I could not try lifting the car.

I then swapped the Quickjacks from side to side, so the orientation is "backwards" from the official position. Note the jacks are as far to the rear as possible, almost touching the rear tires.

Again, the front lift pad is OK.

And the rear lift pad, as far forward as possible, does (barely) reach the jack point.

But as the car lifts, and the suspension drops, the front wheel makes contact with the jack, and becomes impossible to remove.

I know that the jacks can be used sideways. What have you all found?

Bob, It has been pointed out to me that those aren't necessarily jack pads but rather attach points used during assembly. Just as long as your under the long your OK.

You should have the pinch weld rubber pads. You can use those and go under the longs. Or the sideways method works, I have done it too. But can't engine drop easily on the sideways lift. Good for oil changes and brakes etc....

If it didn't come with the pinch weld pads, look them up on their site.

I agree, If you can lift it at the longs, you are good. A set of 4 hockey pucks with a grove cut down the middle to accept the pinch welds would be great. I've never used a quickjack so I don't know what works best. It never hurts to use a 5th point of contact, like a deadman or a tall jack stand, to help guard against a weight shift if you are dropping an engine. tires will do in a pinch.

I have the QJ 5000, it is tight by the wheels, but I had more space than you have. according to instructions, they are lift blocks if needed.
I believe over the winter I will be building or buying pinch weld blocks.

I have the 5000 model too and it is finicky to get it positioned correctly so the rubber blocks meet the round pickup points on the chassis of a 914. Plus you have to get it just right so the tires don't get hung up on the Quickjack as it raises the car and the suspension drops. The 7000 model appears to be a little too long for a 914's wheelbase.

Do not try to flip the lift sideways. As it lifts, the car normally moves forward as it leaves the ground. If lifting sideways, the car drags the wheels sideways against the tires and makes an unsafe lift. ask me now i know!. I use the longs with the pads on the pinch area.

You can use the engine crossbar ok. Pictures look like that's a fit. I think the 7700 is too long however.

Only if it is the later solid mounts. On early side-shifter cars, that will destroy the outer rubber mounts.

And as mentioned above, those round "donuts" aren't jacking points. Neither of them is supported by anything structural on the backside and you will buckle your floor-pan if you lift there.

I’ve been using the donuts….. So just to clear the pinch weld on the longs would be the best place to support the car?

Pete

On both front and rear I use a larger board over the pad that meets both the donut and pinch weld, very stable.

Seconded (thirded?) for NOT putting any significant load on the front donuts. You will just bend the floor. Ask me how I know.... conversely the rear donuts are better structurally secured, but agree that the pucks that pick up the vertical pinch feature are preferred.

- Tony

Well smack me in the head with a salmon. I have been lifting 2 different cars with the "donuts" for years. Now I have to learn a new trick.

If you live on the east coast, they are usually rusted out anyway.

Good point. Mine are not now but could be some day.

I use two of the pads interlocked. That allows the quick jack to contact the body before it contacts the tires.




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DaveB

I use a 2x6 on each side to make it longer.

Pass me that salmon...
Bought a QJ5000 and have been using it on the donuts with the jack's hoses going towards the front of the car. Thankfully nothing bad has happened on either car. One car spent last year's entire winter up on the donuts.

I will now have to make sure if it ever goes somewhere for service (that I can't do), that they don't use the donuts. Those donuts look so intuitive as lift points.

Where exactly should we be engaging the pinch welds if not the donuts? I thought the donuts were the preferred load points.

I'm using an EZCarLift on the donuts without issue (as far as I can tell...) can someone share a pic of the pinch welds in use for lifting points? Seems to me that the rockers would suffer...

i must admit i use the longs when i have the car on a hoist or jack stands.
to me the corner brace plates in the engine bay always seemed a bit "suss" to load up.
could bend up?

however..... got curious with question of the "donuts" reading this.
checking out these old manufacturing photos, seems to me porsche at least were using the donuts to sit the 6 body shells on cradle carts at stuttgart.
or am i not seeing this right ?????

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looked at some karmann factory photos of 914 production line.
karmann did not seem to do this. overhead cradles and sled carts seemed to be a different set up for supporting the bodies during manufacture.

donuts were some kind of porsche thing for the 6s?
if they were they must have been able to support weight of car but maybe load is spread correctly by engagement with a designed fitting and the donut merely alligns it. but its not such a concentrated point load? dunno?

The donuts were younger back then!

The factory always used all 4 donuts to either hang the chassis from the overhead conveyor belt or when on dollies.
They also didn't have the full weight of the fully assembled car until the very end of the production line.

Again, if you actually look at the location of the 4 donuts and you look at what's on the other side of them, you can see why jacking from them is a bad idea.

In the front, it's just the sheet metal of the front floor pan. It will buckle. Seen it many times.
In the rear, it's just the sheet metal of the small triangle. Seen those buckled many times as well.

i agree

i have always look at that donut brace in the engine bay and go - no way.
never jacked the car up using them.
and the front ones just seemed improbably to me.
always used the longs.

----
as to assembly line.
the 6s would have had the full weight while on dollies.
they jacked the engine up into the car off the floor while it was on the dolly.
and put in the front suspension. so she was pretty much at full weight on the dolly.
porsche assembly line back then was more like a neighbourhood garage than a factory.
the donuts must be just locators and the car is actually supported either on spreader plates you can't see in the photos or rails. the donuts would there to lock the car in to stop it laterally shifting on the dolly? thats my thought.

the sleds in the karmann factory were like long rail frames that ran the length of the car while it was being assembled. i reckon it sat on the longs during that stage.
when it went on to the conveyor cradle the donuts probably just we locators but did not take any direct weight load. they would have had to have a way to lock it on to the cradle so it didn't move or shift around. especially where the conveyor turned corners or climbed up hill which it definitely did in the karmann factory.

Cut a slot in a short piece of 4x4 it straddle the pinch weld and get good bearing on the long from which to jack from. The extra 3.5 inches doesn’t hurt either.

I have the 7000SLX which I had to use sideways for my wife's Honda Civic because I was having issues placing the blocks. Still very tight sideways but worked as needed. That and the pinch weld idea seems like the safest solution.

Below is a picture of my car on the 7000SLX. I bought a set of 5000TLX frames, that I haven't setup yet, which is supposed to have a 3 inch taller lifting capability. I would imagine the frames are longer for that reason and is why they are making contact with your tires.

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I guess it's ok if you cut it across the grain but a lengthwise slot in a 2x4 is an invitation for it to crack in half. You can find pucks with a grove for the pinch welds but hockey pucks are about $10/4 and wont split. I used a vise to hold them and made the grove with a sawzall.

Thanks, everyone.

I agree about the risks of using the donuts as jack points. To give me more confidence on my car, I doubled the sheet metal inside the floor pan when I was repairing rust. And I have used notched pads to lift below the longs, but I recommend a long rigid pad to spread out the load.

I will eventually goof around more with my Quickjack. I will guess that the regular (not X) models could fit better, but they do not reach the jack points on some of my other vehicles.

I have a portable mid rise scissor lift, and find that if it doesn’t fit right in the manner you’d normally position it under the car, I go in from the side and that usually works great. You might try that

I have made up my mind not to buy a quick lift with all the issues I’m seeing. It doesn’t appear to lift the the car up high enough to be useful for anything other than washing tires

I have pulled the engine out of mine 3 times using the Quickjack 5000

Also have been using the donuts as lift points, but do not use the rubber pads supplied.

I cut pieces of wood to fit in the trays. I had an issue with the rubber blocks shifting.

Maybe others have not had that problem, thats ok.

I have both a quickjack and the MaxJack mid rise 2 post.

If I could only have one, I'd have the MaxJack.

That said, I'll be using the quickjack for my engine swap coming up this winter, since the Bus is sitting between the MaxJack posts.

Zach

Look into an EZLift.

Have the new 5000 TL wiht increased lift height. Pretty happy.
Goes more than high enough for me. Used it on the 914 and 911

krgds
DAx

Good to know. Planning on pulling my engine soon.

I saw people on YouTube talk about the rubber blocks but never experienced that myself. The 7000SLX I got came with the SUV adapters so I normally use those for the extra few inches of lift. I have 4 pinch weld pucks also that come in handy for my vehicles that have pinch welds. The adapters are a solid flat surface so it has worked well for me.

Amazing work and congrats on entering this next phase of driving!

The 5000 SLX definitely fits between our wheels and hits the donuts. I made a video on mine.

I've seen people use the longer models sideways (running under the car, perpendicular to the longs), but you may want to call BendPak and confirm the safety of that first. Enjoy!

I agree that a 2x4 is not ideal, that is why I used a 4x4. A 1/4x1/2 deep grove cut lengthwise or crosswise should not compromise the integrity of the 4x for the weights we are talking about. Assuming your're not using some ratty old fence post.

It'll get the car as high as you want....just add jackstands when it gets to it's max height...lower the lift, add blocking, then lift again, raise jackstands/grab taller jackstands...repeat.

I worked at a body shop years ago where one guy's bay only had a low rise scissor lift (much like the maxjack). He had various blocking and stands and would get the car 5 feet in the air and then throw a couple of custom made saw horses under the car. It was much sturdier than any sort of twin post lift. Took about 15 minutes to raise the car onto the saw horses.

Don’t saw horses make it a little difficult to work under a car? Part of the attraction of a lift is getting the car in the air in seconds.
Our lift is pretty sturdy.

Now this looks more my speed

https://garags.com/product/maxjax-m6k-porta...mp;utm_term=845

MaxJack for a very low price. Everything they have has a very low price

Bob B
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Works great for me. with the tall blocks I don't even need to remove the rear valance for engine drops.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U80_ymI9IPk

A twinpost is great...but some of us don't have the luxury of space or ceiling clearance for that.

On a 914...what exactly is there to work on underneath the car between "sawhorses"? If the enigne/trans needed to be pulled out, that would happen before we got to the point of raising the car 5' off the ground.

They have a 4 post lift for $900 - less than I paid for my quickjack. The pricing almost seems to good to be true which really raises some red flags... I would love to stack my 914s for the winter...

All their pricing is low... too low... Has anyone purchased from this company?