I recently picked up a 1972 914-4 1.7L which is in decent shape body-wise, but the engine is a mess. I’ve created a blog tracking my build: ruby914.johnoverbaugh.com

Probably could have done a build thread here, but I like owning and managing my content online.

This is the third “older” car I’ve owned. In ‘98 I bought a late 70’s diesel VW Rabbit. It was the first car I’d owned, and I got $750 more on trade-in for a ‘99 Jetta than I paid for it originally! In ‘07 I bought an early 80’s Jeep, but I had no skills and no friends with welders, so that quickly got sold. Fast forward to now, and I finally own the car I’ve literally been dreaming of buying for quite some time. I’ve developed some wrenching skills but still lack experience so expect a lot of questions from me!

She has been neglected for years - last year of registration was 2002. Previous owner got taken to the cleaners by a local garage to the tune of nearly $10k and she still doesn’t run well. She has electrical tape all over the FI harness, shows 110, 110, 100, and 55 lbs of compression, has rusted out heat exchangers, and I keep finding dangling plugs everywhere. Her vacuum hoses were all mixed up, too. Rear wheel camber is so far off that there’s newly 3” of difference between top and bottom, and the right rear wheel is still rubbing on the fender. The shifting is less than vague; it’s actually impossible to tell if I’m in reverse, neutral, or fifth gear.

My goal is to build a 2000-mile car I can hop into and drive cross-country and only worry about the price of gas. So instead of continuing the theme of duct tape, bailing wire, and zip ties, I’m tearing her down, and rebuilding her. I’m not building a spec car - I don’t care if the FI harness connector hoods aren’t original style, I’m likely to upgrade the fuse panel to a bladed panel, and at some point I’ll probably build a much larger engine. Like I said, I want a reliable driver. Today’s highway speeds demand a lot more from a car than they did 50 years ago, and I’d like to keep up.

I’ll try to keep the blog up to date, and will summarize new blog posts in this thread (if that’s allowed by forum rules).

sounds like you have a good plan. Lots of resources here and you have a shop right in your area that can help you with anything you need, but all your brake and suspension stuff but now they do full out builds , they have a FI system they have developed so they could help with the motor rebuild and setting you up with very reliable FI system especially if you want to keep up, consider increased displacement like a 2056 at least or a 2270.
If you didnt already know them check out PMB Performance, Eric Shea!
@john_slc
@ericshea

Phil

Congratulations on your purchase. Before you dive in, I would suggest an overall rust evaluation of the chassis and all suspension points. I am concerned about your rear camber issue as that can mean a suspension console failure from cracking or rust. Please do not drive it until you fully inspect all of the suspension points and parts.

and

Get a local 914-knowledgeable person to give it the once over. Or post detailed pics here and we'll do what we can to get you pointed in the right direction.
Remember: Safety 3rd!
1. Have fun
2. Learn stuff
3. Be safe

Have a local owner come over for a rust inspection

Rust is the most difficult and expensive thing to repair
And if your camber is rust caused. It could be very bad

If the frame is rotted
Most folks spend a couple of years just on welding and chassis

We now have 2 "Ruby" 914's.

Thanks for the warm welcome! Yup plenty of work to be done on her. I'll definitely get with some locals (the 914 Facebook group also recommended Eric). Right now I'm working on getting this engine sorted out.

Meanwhile, I've got a second post up, covering what I've worked on the past week or so: Ruby 914 - Getting to Know You

OK for the life of me... I'm all ready to drop the engine (Tangerine Racing lift plate arrives Saturday). There's just two things I cannot for the life of me figure out, and that is how the cable connects to the heater control boxes. Both of my connectors are rusted solid, as to be basically indistinguishable.

Does anyone happen to have a photo of a connector? Haynes conveniently left this one to our imagination. I think if I can see a photo, I can figure out how to disconnect it, then drop the two "wings," and then I'm ready to lower that engine, pop it on a stand, and get at it.

Thanks!!