My ‘72 had mis-matched struts on it. It had 1 pinch type ball joint mount and 1 taper pin type. I know I don’t want this mis-match but what are the correct type for a ‘72? It seems like a pivotal year for changes. In researching this I’ve read that to change to the later taper pin type that everything has to change from the strut to the hub. Mine seems to have the same hub/rotors on both struts (lug centric vs hub centric)

I would find a matching pin style strut and make everything work correctly. It’s not uncommon to have mismatched struts. I see it all the time on 911’s from every year. Guy stuffs the car into a curb and the shop fits whatever they can find in their stash.

I believe your 72 was early style pinch bolt.

@East coaster
Yes 72 is a split year. PET lists the change beginngin at VIN 01933.
As Mark suggested get a late type strut to match the other.
You do need the strut, taper pin with nut and washer, rotor, caliper, flexible brake line, brake backing plate, brake pads, brake line clip and ball joint from a later car. You should also use new parts replace the lock tab at the top of the strut and the ball joint installation parts.
About the only parts that are the same are the spindle nut and tabbed washer.

That’s where my confusion comes into play. I can’t see any difference in the rotor, caliper, backing plate, etc between my struts. The only difference seems to be the ball joint mounting.

You could always take off the rotors, put them on a table and measure them up. Sometimes it’s hard to see differences while mounted but they become obvious and measurable on a table.

Trust me they are all different as I learned the hard way.
The mounting ears on the struts have a different offset. The late rotor has a wheel centering ring. The caliper has a different offset. These are the obvious vivible differences. The flex line uses different mounting hardware. If yiu pook them up in PET you will see they use different part numbers.