Is there a proper way to spread the brake calipers when changing pads?

I assume the rears can be opened up with the adjustment screws.

How does one spread the front calipers? Do I use something like a paint stick and make sure there is room in reservoir? Is it okay to push fluid backwards through the master cylinder?

I use something made of wood to put pressure on the pistons, the rear also requires the use of the adjuster.

The factory manuals have the procedure, but they assume you have the factory tools.

http://p914-6info.net/Manuals.htm

I use the old brake pad.
Fits perfectly!
Absolutely make sure there is room in the reservoir.
If really old brake fluid, flush with new.

Since I don't do it often, I use a large C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. Have to do each side separately. You do NOT want to use the adjusting screws on the rears to pull them back, they were not designed for that. Back them out a bit, push the pistons in until they stop, back the screws out more, repeat...
A small piece of wood with a cut out hole for the screw protects it from the clamp.

Yes, make sure the reservoir has room, brake fluid is not friendly to paint. Or open the bleed screw a little do a mini-flush.

My most-favoritist tool I've ever purchased...

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/r...ke-caliper-tool

a big old flat non-sharp screw driver.
pry against the old pad, in between the pad and the rotor.

If it does not move easily, you may have other issues that require more work, and removal of the caliper.

Rich

This is what I use....



It is a BIG pair.

It also doubles as an oil filter wrench.

Since I do a lot of wood working, I have many of these. Good old wood clamps. They work really well as caliper adjusters as well. I have also used the same channel locks Clay uses to push the calipers back.



Zach

[/quote]

Since I don't do it often, I use a large C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. Have to do each side separately. You do NOT want to use the adjusting screws on the rears to pull them back, they were not designed for that. Back them out a bit, push the pistons in until they stop, back the screws out more, repeat...
A small piece of wood with a cut out hole for the screw protects it from the clamp.

Yes, make sure the reservoir has room, brake fluid is not friendly to paint. Or open the bleed screw a little do a mini-flush.
[/quote]

So it is safe just to push the front pistons all the way back, but the rears have to be pushed to the adjustment screw limit a little bit at a time?

Is it okay to just open the bleeder instead of "emptying" the reservoir? I have speed bleeders.

One or two pumps with the speed bleeders will be enough unless your reservoir is full to the tippy top.

Zach

[quote name='Highland' date='Jan 25 2023, 11:16 AM' post='3053459']
[/quote]

Since I don't do it often, I use a large C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. Have to do each side separately. You do NOT want to use the adjusting screws on the rears to pull them back, they were not designed for that. Back them out a bit, push the pistons in until they stop, back the screws out more, repeat...
A small piece of wood with a cut out hole for the screw protects it from the clamp.

Yes, make sure the reservoir has room, brake fluid is not friendly to paint. Or open the bleed screw a little do a mini-flush.
[/quote]

So it is safe just to push the front pistons all the way back, but the rears have to be pushed to the adjustment screw limit a little bit at a time?

Is it okay to just open the bleeder instead of "emptying" the reservoir? I have speed bleeders.
[/quote]

Just so we are clear. When you push the pistons back into the caliper (pick your method), fluid will get pushed back into the reservoir. That is why you want to check that it is not to full. An alternative is to open the bleeder a little (speed bleeder or not doesn't really matter). Put a hose and bottle on it like you are bleeding the brakes and the fluid will go there instead of back to the reservoir. Once the pistons are fully compressed/retracted, tighten the bleeder. Repeat for as many calipers as you are doing. And yes, you need to back off the rear adjuster screws, push in the piston until it stops, back off the screw, etc.
** if you bleed the fluid out, make sure the reservoir is at least half full before pumping up the brakes. (you are doing new pads, maybe rotors?) Pump the pedal a couple times, then check the level and add as needed.

On a different note, where in SD are you? I'll be out there in a month visiting my daughter & son-in-law for a long weekend. They are in the Claremont area.

You can use these on the rear brake pads and the front. I have a set for this style brake caliper. Place between the old pads and it allows both pistons to be pushed back into the bores. Best practice is to open a bleeder and push out the old fluid. Then refill reservoir after pumping brake pedal to seat pads.

@L-Jet914 - where did that come from?

I have the same one. Mine has some duct tape wrapped around the head to keep from scratching the surface

I've have the same one. It must be 40 years old and not the Chinese knock off either. I've used it for so many things. Funny thing how often I end up using it.

A number of different companies make them. I got mine off the local tool truck years ago. I know Lisle makes one and there are others that are exactly the same.

I use a dollar store turkey baster and take out the old fluid then use a crescent wrench handle to pry the old pads back. Works every time. Just don’t put it back in the kitchen drawer