Door latch lube.

The passenger side door latch lock had gotten stiff to operate, to the point where I was worried about breaking off the key. I could still unlock it from the inside latch though.

The door latch worked good to open the door, just the lock was stiff.

So I took the door apart to work on the latch. The key turned freely in the door handle, so I know the problem wasn’t there.

Removed the latch mechanism and scrubbed it in Simple Green in the parts washer, working it to try and get it to move freely.

Soaked it overnight in the Simple Green. It still felt a little stiff so I soaked it again overnight in Evapo-Rust. That Really cleaned it up.

Washed and dried it with compressed air and lubed with Kroil, working the mechanism to get the lube into it. Then gave it a spray with chain lube. Wiped the excess off and re installed it.

It works smoothly, but is still a little stiff, more than the driver’s side. Could this be because the driver’s side lock is used more? And possible worn more? (I will do the drivers side next)

The door opens nicely just the lock part is stiff. the key turns freely in the door handle , by itself.

I tried it with and without the rod installed first, to make sure there wasn’t any binding there. Before installing the door panel.

I did not put any grease on the mechanism because I didn’t want it to harden up in the future and cause problems.

Is there a better lube I should have used?

@TheCabinetmaker

I use a liberal amount of white lithium grease on the interior latch mech. The only lube I use these days on the door handles is smearing a very small amount of light grease in the wafer slots after assembly to help keep water out of the cylinder.

I have always liked using the dry teflon spray lubes for anything lock related - not just the 914. Doesn't last forever but it seems to work without attracting dust and grit.

At one time I used lock graphite powder but that was messy.


@TheCabinetmaker

Curt, what are your thoughts on the dry teflon spray lubes?

I use it on the interior locks. Don't use graphite at all. It'll gum up when it gets wet, and it's a mild abrasive.

not for the mechanism... but for the lock itself..

I fell in love with a product that a lock smith told me about
it is called Houdini... its a lock lubricant that does not gum up.
it has worked really well on all of my cars for years now...

I'd try that first... for the wafers...
although this post sounds like the resistance is more from the mechanical linkage than the actual lock.

I use LR2, aviation lube. Probably not the correct stuff to use on locks, but sure works well.