I have a 76'.

I am in the process of replacing the struts and have decided to replace the tie-rods as well since the joints are trashed.

I want to pull the steering gear out so I can work on a bench and not under the car. I studied @IanKarr video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnuYLbZ89y8 but doesn't show it being removed. I can not see a way to remove it without removing a lot of parts of the suspension.

In the Hanes manual, you have to remove the auxiliary carrier.
(Page 103), Section 10, Removing the auxiliary carrier, Step 5.
"Remove the torsion bar adjusting screws then pull off the adjusting levers and seals."

I have no clue what this means and could use some instruction.


Thank you in advance.
Victor

They're referring to the torsion bars.

They’re talking about parts 20, 21, and 22.

Click to view attachment

So, Step one: remove the torsion bar.

If I remove 20, 21 & 22 will that be it? Or do I need to remove other nuts and bolts?
Does this support then slide toward the rear of the car or just drop on my head?

I'm at my limits of my knowledge.

This may be more informative than the Haynes manual, but unfortunately I haven’t any first hand knowledge of what you’re doing.

http://p914-6info.net/PDFs/Group%204%20Front%20Axle.pdf

Are you replacing the tie rods and ball joints? There’s no need to pull the rack unless it needs work. Do one task, the strut cartridges, (contrary to what you might read in the Haynes) the strut housings remain on the car when the swap is performed, button it up and move on to the tie rod items. You don’t need to touch the height adj for any of it unless doing the control arm bushings. You set the height prior to the in the future 4 wheel alignment.

The AI instructions didn't tell you what to do?? Sorry, I couldn't resist...

So tell us again what you want to do (or think you want to do). Replacing the struts does not require removing the steering rack. You may or may not have to remove the control arms depending on whether you can separate the lower ball joint from the control arm.
If you want to take each side off, first remove the caliper. You will need to separate the brake line because it runs thru a retainer on the strut. Do it quick and you won't lose much brake fluid. Then pop the tie rod end out. The torsion bar adjusting screw (bolt?) needs to be backed out to remove the downward tension. If I recall, there are 2 mounting bolts in the front and two in the rear. Remove those and the upper strut nut and it comes out in your hands.

Where in Chicago/area are you? I'm in NW suburbs.

I did mine without removing the rack. A little more tedious but everything is when you are under the car on the floor.

@fixer34 Good one I'm in Mt. Prospect. This is my first 914 and the first car I have ever attempted to work on. So, I really have no clue what I'm doing.

I set out to refresh the front struts. They were shot. The driver-side ball joint was split as was the tie-rod end. The passenger side wasn't as bad but I planned to replace both sides.

I was going to upgrade to Turbo tie-rods. This is where I came off the rails. Unfortunately, I watched the video I referenced. That video skips over the removal of the support rack (not sure what to call it). That is when I wrote my post. I was really lost.

I've reversed my decision on the Turbo-tie rods since I posted. It's just too damn cold in my garage and my old bones can't take it. So, for now, I'm just changing the ends of the tie-rods.

So once my parts get here I'm just hoping I can get everything back together

Seems to me that you see what needs to be done… all while hoping there’s a way to not do it that way lol. I think you’ve got the right material, now you just need to commit to the idea you are a classic car owner!

Sometimes you’ll really enjoy it, other times you’ll come inside and search the interior for a new hobby. But I’m telling you, there is no hobby as satisfying as this one!