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BR9
I can put the key in and it turns to about 1 degree away from where the button should pop out but it stops. I sprayed some PB blaster, and other than making it turn really easily in the zone it could already move in, it didn't help that last little bit to make it open.

I tried slightly pressing on the lid right at the lock but it doesn't help.

It's been sitting for 30 years and hasn't been opened in that amount of time. I've owned it since '84 so I know its history.

Is there some way to use an o-ring pick or such to get at the mechanism to free it?
ClayPerrine
Open the engine compartment

Push the cups for the top latches into the trunk from the engine compartment.

Put a bright flashlight in one of the cup holes.

Get a 10MM wobble socket and put it on a long extension.

Feed it into the unused cup hole.

Keep adding extensions until you can unbolt the trunk catch at the back of the trunk.


That's how to do it without damaging something.


Hope that helps.


BR9
QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jan 28 2023, 01:49 PM) *

Open the engine compartment

Push the cups for the top latches into the trunk from the engine compartment.

Put a bright flashlight in one of the cup holes.

Get a 10MM wobble socket and put it on a long extension.

Feed it into the unused cup hole.

Keep adding extensions until you can unbolt the trunk catch at the back of the trunk.


That's how to do it without damaging something.


Hope that helps.


Thanks, I better go get some more extensions smile.gif
ClayPerrine
The bitch to this job is you have to look through the hole to line up the socket on the bolts. They are not big bolts, and they are not really torqued tight. But it is hard to get the socket on the. So plan on all day to do it.

BR9
Does this need some sort of borescope to see what you are doing? Do you have to lay diagonal across the trunk lid to look in a hole?

I could see maybe if the engine was out this might work but with a super bright light in one hole all I can see is pretty much nothing.

I took the rubber cover off of the tower thinking maybe that would help, but that did nothing.

Maybe if I put a GoPro in there, with a rope retrieval, I could run that in live view mode and see what's going on.
mgphoto
There is a procedure that has been talked about here, remove the rear bumper and valence drill a hole below the lock mechanism, use a screw driver to push up on the latch to disengage. You can install a rubber plug in the hole.
Search this site for more details.
bdstone914
I have not tried it but i heard you can reach behund the lower latch with a 2 iron to trip the part that holds onto the upper latch. You go in thru the hole for the targa top latch. You need a spotter looking thru to other hole or a bote scope.
BR9
QUOTE(mgphoto @ Jan 30 2023, 09:51 AM) *

There is a procedure that has been talked about here, remove the rear bumper and valence drill a hole below the lock mechanism, use a screw driver to push up on the latch to disengage. You can install a rubber plug in the hole.
Search this site for more details.


I came across some folks talking about the drill out method but I couldn't find any pictures or dimensions of how far below to drill other than some folks having the PORSHE reflectors drilling in the top center of the S and then pushing straight in that hole.

But I have the stock pop out push button lock.

I also saw some folks drill up from the truck for some secondary method for a pull cable on it.

Do you push the bottom of that latch straight up or do you have to try and pry it down, or does either motion release it?

BR9
QUOTE(bdstone914 @ Jan 30 2023, 10:12 AM) *

I have not tried it but i heard you can reach behund the lower latch with a 2 iron to trip the part that holds onto the upper latch. You go in thru the hole for the targa top latch. You need a spotter looking thru to other hole or a bote scope.


I don't see how you can get the club in the hole. Maybe if the engine deck lid was out and you had the rear glass out of the car.

TheCabinetmaker
You say the button is pushed in? It has a spring that should push it back out. Is the key hole vertical or horizontal? If its horizontal, it's locked. I'd take a rubber or a deadblow hammer and give it a good whack, but if it's unlocked and button in, it should open. Worse case use a 5mm drill bit. It will ruin the lock cylinder, and wafers. You drill thru the lock cylinder and wafers, then drill off the screw holding the actuator tab onto the rear of lock. then the entire cylinder will come out, and you can reach in with a screwdriver and push the tab that opens the trunk. Then send me a key and I'll make you a new cylinder for the lock.
BR9
QUOTE(TheCabinetmaker @ Jan 30 2023, 04:18 PM) *

You say the button is pushed in? It has a spring that should push it back out. Is the key hole vertical or horizontal? If its horizontal, it's locked. I'd take a rubber or a deadblow hammer and give it a good whack, but if it's unlocked and button in, it should open. Worse case use a 5mm drill bit. It will ruin the lock cylinder, and wafers. You drill thru the lock cylinder and wafers, then drill off the screw holding the actuator tab onto the rear of lock. then the entire cylinder will come out, and you can reach in with a screwdriver and push the tab that opens the trunk. Then send me a key and I'll make you a new cylinder for the lock.


The key hole is horizontal. I can put the key in and rotate it to vertical almost. It's like it can't get to the final full vertical position, off by a hair. I can sort of pull the key out about 1/4" inch when it's in as vertical a position as I can get but I don't want to try pulling the key all the way out in that state. I then turn it back to the locked position.

If I have to do it by a drill method I'll be doing the drill from above the license plate area to try and put something in the hole to trigger the latch. I'm just not sure of the exact spot since it seems folks use a few locations, which I guess all work.

This unlock the trunk process is sort of like Bigfoot. People talk about doing it, but photo evidence of how to do it is not around other than the folks with the PORSCHE reflector covering the trunk release and they show where to drill in that case. But it looks a lot higher than the folks going in just above the license plate description.
rhodyguy
What Curt said. It will cost you the locksmith work, parts and postage. Then you’re done. Aside from the install. Drilling holes in body work seems a bit excessive. Then what? You start by getting the parts, rebuilding the button assem and fixing the brand new hole. Why bother? If you take the extension route, duct tape every connection. To include the socket on the last extension. Curt would probably be less expensive all in than buying enough extensions. That you won’t need later.
TheCabinetmaker
Don't drill through the body! It won't get you anywhere. Ignore that advice. Drill thru the slot for the key. The object is too drill out the screw that holds the actuator tang to the cylinder. The screw in the last pic is what holds the button in the sleeve

Click to view attachment

TheCabinetmaker
Click to view attachment
rhodyguy
Too easy.
Craigers17
Many will view this as unsightly or unnecessary, but I have a Porsche reflector over the back panel, and wanted a stealth way to pop the trunk. It's basically a cheap roller, a piece of wire, and drilling a small hole through the trunk and the latch. For me, it's a release mechanism, but it also doubles as an emergency pull. After I paint the trunk, I will "purty" this up a bit with some heat shrink instead of the black tape.

Click to view attachment


Click to view attachment
r_towle
QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jan 28 2023, 02:33 PM) *

The bitch to this job is you have to look through the hole to line up the socket on the bolts. They are not big bolts, and they are not really torqued tight. But it is hard to get the socket on the. So plan on all day to do it.

^^^^truth
TheCabinetmaker
QUOTE(r_towle @ Jan 30 2023, 06:14 PM) *

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jan 28 2023, 02:33 PM) *

The bitch to this job is you have to look through the hole to line up the socket on the bolts. They are not big bolts, and they are not really torqued tight. But it is hard to get the socket on the. So plan on all day to do it.

^^^^truth

I tried this method. It sucked! Took about 20 minutes to say "screw this". Drill the sucker!
r_towle
QUOTE(TheCabinetmaker @ Jan 30 2023, 06:18 PM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Jan 30 2023, 06:14 PM) *

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jan 28 2023, 02:33 PM) *

The bitch to this job is you have to look through the hole to line up the socket on the bolts. They are not big bolts, and they are not really torqued tight. But it is hard to get the socket on the. So plan on all day to do it.

^^^^truth

I tried this method. It sucked! Took about 20 minutes to say "screw this". Drill the sucker!

I got it by looking through one hole and socket in the other.
Laying on the rear lid….fun times.
Geezer914
Are you using the right key? One does all the locks and one is just a valet key.
BR9
QUOTE(Geezer914 @ Jan 30 2023, 06:40 PM) *

Are you using the right key? One does all the locks and one is just a valet key.


Yeah it's the right key, I never had a valet key.
BR9
QUOTE(TheCabinetmaker @ Jan 30 2023, 05:51 PM) *

Don't drill through the body! It won't get you anywhere. Ignore that advice. Drill thru the slot for the key. The object is too drill out the screw that holds the actuator tang to the cylinder. The screw in the last pic is what holds the button in the sleeve

Click to view attachment


Ok, I'll go this route tomorrow. Thanks!
TheCabinetmaker
Feel free to contact me via email. 914locks at gmail dot com
BR9
QUOTE(TheCabinetmaker @ Jan 30 2023, 07:19 PM) *

Feel free to contact me via email. 914locks at gmail dot com


Yeah drilling it is the way to go, took about 10 seconds. I didn't find any time capsule stuff really.



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