I'm replacing the ball joints on my car.

1. How does one get the ball joint that is inserted in the control arm off? I've tried raising the whole assembly up with the jack, thinking it was misaligned and tapping it with a hammer to no avail. It's now soaking in penetrating oil.
Click to view attachment

2. Is there an alternative to the over $100 tool that can be used to get the bottom ball joint nut off? There are posts on this forum that discuss some $45 version on pelican, but all they have is ones costing significantly more. I do NOT want to use a hammer and chisel to get it off if I can help it, and I need to install the new one as well.
Here is a view of the nut looking up at it from below.
Click to view attachment

Well, that one is really crusty so I think the correct tool is about the only way. It is not easy even with the tool. I have a homemade tool with the 4 points, but it really needs an outer ring to keep it in place. While a breaker bar can be used, my air impact wrench is my go to device for this job. Installation is the reverse of removal, so the tool gets double use.
And use lots of heat.

the $45 tool, and I approve of it:
https://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/sh...oint-Nut-Socket

Thanks. I couldn't find this on Pelican when I looked before. I figured out how to search the forums and found it. I sent the seller a message.

The ball joint socket tool that Jimmy T makes is the best. Worth every penny and more. Use a big impact and Bob’s your uncle.

Autozone has a free loaner tool program where you can get a tie-rod separator that works well: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loane...ator/787834_0_0

Or good old fashioned forks will work: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loane...-set/449957_0_0

You pay for the tools when you pick them up and get a full refund on return. O'reilly's has a similar program with same tools.

To get the ball joint nut off, this socket is a pretty close fit but not perfect. I was able to get the ungodly torque on mine with new nuts. It should work to loosen as long as they aren't horribly seized. Put the socket and breaker bar on the nut and then use a floor jack to put pressure on so you can reef on the bar without the socket popping off.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/perfor...cket/pfm0/w1269

EDIT: for $45 I'd get the tool listed in the posts above. Didn't know about that when I did mine.

Is the scissor-like device what is used for question #1?

Like this:

Click to view attachment

Any tips/tricks for using it? Does the shaft pop off violently? Id the Harbor Freight one good enough for two uses?

Thanks!

Can't speak to the HF version, but yes, that's the style. Just insert between the ball and control arm and crank and yes, it might pop off violently depending on how much force is needed to pop them loose.

So I would get the tie-rod separator and place it upside down from the way it's shown? It looks like it pushes out the threaded stud.

How do I use the forks? Just like a wedge: put under the horizontal arm and lift, thus pulling the threaded rod down?

I sent a message to the seller of the $45 tool, but maybe I'll take the new nut to the FLAPS and see if the loaner tool will work.

Thanks for the reply!

I use a fork that his made for separating those joints. I have 2. One I used a 3# sledge on it and the other one fits in an air hammer. And get that ball joint nut tool that Brett mentioned. I got one and it works great.

You need the special tool to remove the bottom nut on the ball joint. On the top of the ball joint, there is a shaft that slips into the spindle part. Depending on the year of your car… there are two types. 72 and earlier use a bolt the threads into the spindle part. Be very careful and don’t break this bolt. If it’s 73 and later… there is a bolt with a nut. In either cases… you likely should be using a torch to get the top bolt loose. Go
Slow and work it loose. On the early models… breaking this bolt is a really painful lesson.

Yes you can use that style ball joint separator which works really well or this style outer tie rod remover which I use a lot at work. Place the threaded section in the little cupped area and the claw section between the tie rod end boot and control arm and use a socket with socket wrench or 3/8 impact gun and it pops it right out and doesn't damage the threads of the tie rod end if reusing. The pickle forks work but can be a pain. The first tool mentioned and the one I have pictured here are the way to go these days. I purchased the P280B tool (Baum Tools) for my 914 lower ball joints when I have some time to get around to working on the rest of the front suspension.

I have used this with an impact wrench to remove the ball joint nut. It’s not a snug fit, but it worked fine.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25965-Beari...t/dp/B004FDJDE2

Success! I got the upper ball joints off. They do just come off all at once, very suddenly.

I borrowed the tool from Autozone.

Am I going to need the tool to get the lower ball joints off, or does that one come off once that special nut is removed?

I just heard from JimmyT, too.