All, I know it has been discussed but I cannot find conclusive information on coolant tube or hoses running through the center tunnel. I ha e two 20ga 321S.S. 1.4" ID tu es that are perfect for my 20b rotary conversion. I'd like to run them through the tunnel and run right between the brace and steering rack with a bump kit installed giving me the extra10 mm of Clearance. Everything appears to fit. I.know I know the lines can be ran with green stripe underneath. I feel like that's home grown and can be fabricated with a much cleaner appearance.

1) has anyone successfully achieved using the tunnel for conversions? If so how warm does the car become?

2) where's did you.run the lines once on the other side of the firewall

3) concerns with heat soaking the steering rack?

Subaru 2.0 turbo conversion. My lines run through the tunnel, I will have to dig out pictures from somewhere. In any event, there is heat in the car. You can feel it radiate a bit. Although not uncomfortable, on a hot sunny so cal day, it does add to "the experience." Have not experienced any heat soak to the steering rack, whether it is 50 degrees or 120 it feels the same. My lines pop out of the firewall...I'll see if I can find a photo.

I have never seen it inside the tunnel and I suspect unless you are using a cable shifter you would not have enough real estate inside the tunnel.

I would look at stacking them on the passenger side of the tunnel, resting on the floor, then make a metal cover for heat and spray issues.

Other option, there is enough room underneath the rocker covers to get up front, then I have seen oil line routed into the passenger footwell then into the front trunk.

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I have a "tunnel" cover from underneath that was custom fabricated. Inside, the aluminum tubes meet the stripe hose. You can see in this photo how they exit....Hope it helps.






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Cool!
I would love to see how they exit the firewall.
Do you use the stock shifter?

Very cool

Robarabiqn, thank you so much for the images. Believe it or not I am going to try to feed the lines from the rear. And slide through the tunnel making small incisions to remove ribs in the way. I wonder if foam insulation would help Temps. I feel the best method is straight lines through the frame running parallel vs 200 turns in every other configuration.

Rennshift shifter....

Ask, and ye shall receive...







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I meant exiting the first firewall at the pedals and steering rack.

Don't ... You'll thank me once you get the car back on the road.

Why?

I havent needed to get under there to do anything as of yet. I don't have that photo....

Steve ran hard lines down a custom tunnel:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2824596

Scroll down through his pics.

Might try reaching out to him for feedback on heat, etc...

Not knocking your solution in anyway, and honestly it’s a great ideA.
My old concern was the tunnel bottom piece, so I read, is under tension to provide structure to the car. That piece is always being pulled to keep the middle of the pan flat.

Now I’m not sure if that is true.

Rich

Because the steering rack spacers that are sold as a "bump steer kit" will completely throw off your steering geometry and put stress on the upper steering assembly, including the rubber isolator and steering shaft.
Your steering will be binding.

We just had a thread about this recently:
www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=363447

Gang, I just cannot l stuff these tubes into the tunnel effectively. I plan to wrap the tunes in 1/2" thick Titan K insulation which really drops Temps. I wrapped the hose on my daily driver with it to play with the product and can comfortably hold the hose after fully warmed up. Impressive insulator. I hate to say this but I may need to rebuild the tunnel with a 4.5" total height vs 2" factory. Measured from rear of tunnel obviously. Ugh and other suggestion?

Another shot with the pipe pushing too tight of clearances.

I removed the recess on the top of the tunnel where the factory wiring harness routes. I also removed the various brackets inside the tunnel. I’m running 1-1/4” (OD) alum pipe and they fit into tunnel. I’ll be welding flat plate with access panels (like I did in the rear of the tunnel in this photo) to fill the areas I removed and provide future access. I will be adding a secondary area on top of the tunnel for wiring and other items, and to isolate heat to lower section.

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I like the concept but am concerned there will be substantial heat within the tunnel. I have looked at insulating but cannot get the insulation sufficiently around the tube. thinking of cutting out the whole tunnel and adding 3 inches in height to it to properly insulate lines. yeah its work but it would look better than hacking it under the car.