What is reasonable and fair price for me to sell complete dealer installed AC. Inside under dash, lines, condensor, compressor.....everything.

Condition is important for sure and will dictate what you can get. Some of the elements are totally worthless other than for mocking up new components like the lines. The compressor is usually shot and is normally replaced with a more modern unit anyway as the stock ones were power thieves on a car with under a 100 hp to begin with. If your underdash unit was in minty condition i would ask $200 for everything.

You really know how to ruin a party

Lol. Just being honest. I know a stash of like 5 of these and they just arent worth very much as they require cutting the car up and they never worked well to begin with. There is value in the under dash unit provided it is in nice condition.

with the $200 estimate. I’ve always given away or trashed the ones that came with my cars. It’s just like FI parts in a box. Cores prices.

Slight amendment. If it is a fully functioing blows cold air hard right now system then $500 for the right person.

Prepare to drill lots of good sized holes in your car if this is a ‘new’ installation. Usually a large chunk is removed from the pass side engine shelve too. A massive cut out on the front trunk floor.

I have had people give me the A/C parts for free just to get them out of their garages! I was visiting them to buy other 914 parts completely unrelated to the A/C systems.

1500 but if you have it on your car do not remove it, leaves way too many holes

I picked up a bunch over the years for parts for around $200.00, but ended up throwing it away. Usually the motor is trashed in the evaporator and the condenser and compressor are crap compared to modern ones available for our cars.
http://www.retroair.com/porscheairconditio...acfullkits.html

I think the item with the most value is the evaporator unit. Even if the motor is shot, having a good front piece with working vents and knobs would have value. Just saw one on E-bay for $795, which is about $300 too much, IMHO. If you decide to remove it, I'd recommend getting the welder ready to do it all correctly

Another option would be to restore it but don't worry about getting it all working. You could do that later or leave it up to the next guy.

Piling on.
Ive thrown away so many of these things~
The only pieces that are of value are the under dash unit ...if in very nice shape, & the formed condenser cover that fits below the spare tire in the Frunck.
Edit: there are a couple of brackets that are specific to the T4 that will assist with the retrofit of the NEW compressor you are likely to install.

I respectfully disagree with "...and they never worked well to begin with. " I had a 74 2.0 DD with the VPC dealer installed AC while living in St. Pete / Clearwater FL. The PO replaced the hoses, dryer, clamps, etc. and kept the boat anchor piston compressor running R-12. It also had the gawd awful single 2bbl Holley Weber carb setup.

That AC system blew ice cubes even while stuck in stop n go rush hour traffic on US 19 (pre-overpasses, zillion traffic lights) in the middle of summer with 90+ F and 90+ percent humidity. Added bonus, it would defrost the interior and glass in seconds.

My current 74 2.0 project has a VPC AC system in it. I plan on getting it operational with a smaller modern AC compressor and smaller slimmer condenser and fan(s). My goal is to get a really skinny donut spare to fit under the front trunk board and retain all or most of the stock frunk space. There are potential options now for mounting the compressor either on top of the fan shroud or under the engine sheet metal.

I used to hang out with Ed Mooha who owned Gilmore Enterprises at his shop in Clearwater. Ed was a whiz at building ACVW AC systems. He was working on a complete 914 AC system but never completed it due to family and health issues. Ed moved to NV and sold the business. I contacted the new owner a few years back and he unfortunately has ZERO interest in building 914 AC systems, even though he has a Type II bay window bus system.

Please contact me if you plan on throwing any AC system components away.

So....many.....holess

That's not a hole. Look at it this way. You have a head start on making the air exit for the front radiator you will be installing for your Subaru engine conversion!

As others have noted, the original York compressor is worthless. It is a overwwight, power pig and likely leaks. Likewise, the old hoses need to be replaced with modern vapor barrier hoses. I updated the original system in mine with a rotary compressor, new hoses, new valve. It blows ice cold with minimal impact on power.

Fill the hole with louvered plates from PMS or equivalent.
https://patrickmotorsports.com/products/bod...a95fa&_ss=r
You can then either install another condenser or oil cooler fan shroud over it.

I run an automotive AC specialist shop.

What I use is "reduced" barrier hoses.
These are smaller outer diameter than normal barrier hose, are more flexible during installation and always fit through the original holes in the body. A normal barrier hose can be larger outer diameter than the original non-barrier hose and are very difficult to bend in as tight a radius as the original hose was installed.

I usually buy my hose and fittings from
https://coldhose.com

I prefer steel fittings most of the time.

The only thing I will keep on my 75 is the evap set up inside. That will work fine.
I will keep my cars on R12 as well.
R134 can work as well as R12 but it requires higher high side pressures, and this is a greater load on the compressor and engine.
A R134 conversion requires a high side pressure cut off that does not exist in the original systems. Add a high side switch for any 134 work.