Okay... today I start the tank refurb... I've got the POR kit.

Any advice from people who've BTDT.

I plan to remove the sender and filler.

I plan to remove the bottom screen, but II'll keep the bottom line fittings on during cleaning, just add some fuel hose, a fuel line plug and a hose clamp to keep everthing closed.

First rinse out the inside. Clean with Marine Clean and let soak for over night.

Rinse and then treat with Metal Prep. Rinse and Dry.

Off to the Powdercoater for new paint.

Then, treat the inside with the POR treatment.

The powdercoater recommended doing this AFTERWARDS as he said the heat from the powdercoating oven could melt the coating...

Any other tips?

Take the cap off.

if you still have gas in the tank recently, i have heard running a hose hooked up to a running cars tail pipe will remove all of the fumes.

I had mine boiled at a radiator shop. Cost was competetive with the purchase of the chemicals to do it myself.

You will need to run a tap through the bolt holes for the expansion tank; the threads fill up with the coating.

You'll probably want to put wooden dowels in the fuel line holes so the insides of them don't get coated.

Eat your wheaties.

G.

i would take it to a radiator shop - had mine done for 75? or less if i remember. The guys cleaned it all out, then sealed it with this red resign - created a rubbery bladder inside the tank. Im sure you'll local radiator shop will know what it is. think thats your best bet.
If you need me to find out the name of that product, let me know.

karl,

i just did mine recently. i took the line fittings off and treated them with the marine clean and metal prep separately. i hose clamped a foot long piece of 3/4 in. hose onto the fittings threads for the cleaning. and then just used duct tape on them when i used the sealer. i taped the top holes too when sealing but some still leaked out.

the sealer is thick and it takes alot of work to keep turning the tank all around to make sure you get total coverage.

don't know if the internals of the later tanks are different from the early ones, but the baffel only had a couple of small holes at the bottom to let fuel in. so the sealer didn't want to drain very well into the baffeled area and then into the outlet hole. the sealer won't drain completely from the sender and filler holes because of the flange that is welded around the holes for the bolt threads. i had to turn the tank upside down and spoon as much of the sealer out as i could. i let the tank lie on it's side while the sealer hardened so the sealer that drained down wouldn't puddle in the bottom and plug the holes into the baffel.

clean all the threads before the sealer completely hardenes. you may have to ream the outlet hole a little so the screen will fit back in.

have fun!!

doug

I as well did mine recently. My advise is take it to THE radiator shop. Usually the little guys dont do it them selves they send it out to a big outfit that has the various tanks of chemicals. One such is bout 15 min from my house. Cost $85 to boil out and it STRIPPED the tank interior and ext. If youve got a tank that you feel would need treating with POR after tanking it ...Get another tank.

Okay... I inspected my tank inside... very clean. very little if any goop, not really any rust that I could tell.


I did the treatment with Marine clean... and then Metal Ready... The first cleaner came out just slightly tan from residue.

Now I see bare shiny steel inside.

THe tank is currently drying with a heater fan blowing in it now...

So... it's in really good shape. I'll bring it to the powder coater this week along with the filler and cap and she will be good as new.

I don't think I really need to even seal it, but I will do so for good measure.

Regards and thanks,

Karl

Karl,
You had no replys to this topic on Pelican?
Are all the you-it-yourselfers over here now?

Paul

Don't forget to fill it up before you drive!

(from the guys over @ PP)



M