Suggested style, length, etc. of feeler gauge for valve adjustment?
I know .006 and .008 - just looking for what style/length proves helpful in the tight space.

Also - planning to do an oil change at/around the same time - any logic in doing it either before or after valves?

Regular straight feelers work

Minimal oil comes out of the valve covers but I like to do it at the same time since it will be up in the air already

Valve adjustment is done cold, oil change done hot.
Do the valves, warm up the engine and then drain the oil.

Not just cold, but COLD. Like the entire engine is the same temp as the air around it cold. You have not driven the car since yesterday cold.

Zach

Perfect timing for me. I have unfortunately recently learned my main maintenance mechanic will most likely be retiring do to health concerns.
I am planning on learning to do more of all the mechanical maintenance myself.

Has anyone here ever used the snap gap system?

It seems almost foolproof, but have a concern or two of failure of the shim, and or the locking screw on the retainer. Any experience??

Is there a gasket set better than the others? Victor Reinz?

Thank you in advance.

To make valve adjustments a TON easier...consider chromoly pushrods. You adjust them to zero lash (I adjust mine to just a *touch* of noticeable lash to ensure they're not binding the valve.)

Last time I checked, they were less than $100 a set? Tangerine sells them (even custom lengths if you want) but I can't find them on the web site.

I like the thicker 914Rubber valve cover gaskets.

GA

Yup - it's the first thing on the docket when I get to it as it's been sitting for weeks - doesn't get much colder than that - which is why I also wondered about doing oil at the same time since I figure its all dropped to the bottom now. Planning on pulling the sump cover and checking/cleaning the screen (mainly since I've never done that in the 4 years I've owned it) and installing a tuna can.

What you want are the contaminates to be suspended in the oil that happens when the oil is hot.

Curious, does the exhaust need to be pulled to do this, or recommended?

No need to pull the exhaust, it is difficult and you will need 3 hands to accomplish, one to hold the feeler gauge, one to hold the box end wrench and one to hold the screwdriver, it becomes a dance (turn that, tighten this, measure that and repeat). There are several threads on the subject, look for capt. crusty posts.

Oh its not that bad.

One hand holds the feeler and box end wrench on the nut, the other tightens the adjuster. Then just hold the adjuster still while you snug up the nut. If you find yourself tightening the adjustor screw a little when you tighten the jam nut, go with it and keep the adjuster 1/4 turn loose and let it tighten up a smidge as you secure the jam nut.

The hard part is figuring out where to get your hands up and in there, especially when you have hams like me. Once you figure that part out, the rest of it is pretty easy.

More then that - you want to avoid pulling the exhaust whenever you can. Breaking an exhaust stud, or having one pull out of the case, is a PITA, and easily avoidable.

I will say though - when I had headers on the car, doing valve adjustments was a SNAP compared to heat exchangers.

Zach