Bit the bullet and decided to get one of these corrosion removing lasers to help in my transmission rebuilding biz over at EvilWerks.com. Its pretty cool, as you can see. It takes a little time to get used to and to know what settings are needed to do what without vaporizing the substrate. This one actually can be configured to weld (similar to TIG) and cut.

Laser in action
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/7iF3sSM2cys

Contrast of cleaned to not cleaned side
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/L-koMmA5KP8

Sweet! I scraped a bunch of that crusty black tar off mine with a table knife. It was more like hours, not minutes.

This is a pain I know and why the laser now resides in the shop and gets daily use.

Can you use it in both businesses? like for removing moles or restoring eye sight?

I worked with high power lasers for many years. In fact, I designed many optical systems that used them. I used to have to get my eyeball retinas inspected & photographed for damage. Be very careful with that motherfucker & were safety goggles that filter out that wavelength. Be safe & don't fuck around with the thing.

Wavelength, output power, & class? Wear the appropriate safety goggles!!! No shit.

The reflected &/or back scattered light is potentially harmful too. And remember, don't stare directly into the beam with your remaining eye.

Nice new tool. Curious as to the cost difference between this and the dry ice blasters? I've seen the lasers used for rust removal but not case clean up like the dry ice blasters.

So is this something to clean engine case…magnesium . Looks a bit scary hence question




.. 4

Can we see a close up of before and after ?
will it remove paint, grease, oil ?

How would it compare to blasting or dipping for use on bodywork and other bits?

Kinda curious as to what it does to surface metallurgy. Looks like it removes oxide so just might improve the surface. Very cool.

Neat tech: Edd China gave it a go.

https://youtu.be/v5rWy-u994k

Oh man that looks like a MAJOR time saver. Very cool.

for those of us that might add that tool to their shop...

What did that actually cost?

Are there consumables?

Do you have a brand preference?

Basically, what the best bang for the buck?

Can it be used to clean undersides of our cars?

Have you found shortcomings that you were not aware of initially?

It looks like that might work better than many forms of surface prep that we have available now...

Might it work at interior tar/goo removal?

What sort of power did it require?

Looks like a bad-assed surface prep device, might save buttloads of time during a chassis restoration.

for those of us with attention deficit disorder laser content starts as 28:20

Dr Evil now needs a shark so he can mount the laser on the shark's head.

...ill tempered sea bass at a minimum.

Yes, please do that. If you want to add the Wavelength/power/class we could even suggest PPE. My background is as a high power laser user (experimental laser diagnostics) and proper PPE is essential if you wish your eyes to stay safe for years.

Not sure who made this one, but some cheaper laser off Alibaba and other import shops have multiple modes because of poor filtering and internal optics so you really need wide range googles. Our radiation safety people did a bunch of testing on import lasers and learned a) not to trust the manufacturer and b) absolutely not to trust their goggles.

Remember. Do not look into the laser with your remaining eye......LOL

Someone must

Sorry I missed all the replies. Its been a while that my email notifications have not worked, so I have to go looking for every post and reply I make to see if anyone replied. I try to subscribe and it says I already am. Ill try to answer all of these in order.

The cost for the dry ice system is both in the procurement of the blaster unit, and the pellets or a system to make your own pellets. Some places wont have the ability to deliver pellets, or require you use a certain amount to have an account, etc. More head ache. Also, the cost for the blaster unit and my laser unit are essentially the same, so not having to buy supplies is nice.
Further, the cleaning is different between the two. The dry ice is great and leaves the surface naked, the laser can remove some of the substrate so you have to be careful and dial it in. I had a guy stop by recently that runs an automotive shop and had a dry ice retailer stop by, set up unit, and fail to be able to remove even gasket material from his transmissions and engines. This was not worth it for him. Dry ice is nice for detailing as you can shoot paint, rubber, plastic and make it look new again. Very different animals.

As shown in the videos of magnesium 901 cases being cleaned with it, yes.

I can see about taking and posting some pics of close up. It can leave a pattern on the metal, but that pattern is easily rubbed off with either sand paper or a wire brush. If the wattage, or dwell time is too high this will abrate the surface substrate, so it takes some skill and understanding to use so you dont mess up the part.

It excels at removing grease and oil from substrate. Dirt is left behind and needs brushed off. Pain is removed as well, but takes more time unless you dont care about the surface finish. It also depends on the substrate as steel is way easier to de rust and remove paint from.

For steel body work, this thing would kick ass and I look forward to using it on my 74 project, but that project isnt that rusty. It preps the surface fast and nicely. Less mess than blasting. Dipping has its own issues with eating the tubes in the longs, and not fully clearing out of the frame which can manifest later with corrosion in bad places that are hard to get at.

This unit is essentially the same as every unit being offered of this size and type. All made in China, as most things are. The laser itself is a Raycus 1500w 220V unit. Link below to the one I bought. It came with glasses and I bought an extra pair for observers. I tend to stay at 500W and below, depending on what I am doing, and the beam width I am using. I use the glasses during operations. The only thing I plan to include is a mask since my exhaust system is not adequate and I will be needing to build up a better one since I cant just open the door and fan out the fumes during winter.

For the goggles, is there a test to show that they work or do not?

Here are more technical parameters:
Laser Source: Max Laser 1080±5 nm fiber laser
Laser Output Power: 1500w
Safety: Class 4 Laser Device

https://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Welding-Mac...C435&sr=8-5

Thank you for the detailed response!

That is the size I would want as well. 220 single phase.

Hopefully they will continue to become more affordable. 5K is the price point that I'd bite on.

Your sharing of info (especially regarding transmission tips) is awesome!

Folks like you are what make this forum the best one regarding these cars and the care needed to maintain them.

Dr Evil for the win

Thanks man, we all started not knowing anything and 23 yrs ago or so when I came to the 914 online community it was open and helpful with many amazing members. Im glad to help this family of enthusiasts thrive in anyway I can.

I would like to see if there was a way to have either the work piece or the laser go back and forth om its own so you could walk away. I keep threatening to make a turntable for my blast cabinet that would work off the air stream.

Kevin

Does this method damage any gasket mating surfaces?

As I mentioned, it all depends on wattage, duration, beam width, surface, material. If I set it to 10mm beam and 1500W, absolutely will wreck the substrate. Current case I am working on has several stamps from a previous builder. I cranked up the laser as described (I dont think I did 1500w) and it melted the mag to remove the stampings, essentially. It was enough for me. If you keep watts appropriate, then all is good.

Hey, Doc, those work great as hair removal tools too,