Since I have the engine out. I would like to track down a leak.
The orange rubber sealant feels wet when I touch it.
Am I opening a can of worms if I try to reseal it?
Why did the PO use the orange sealant, are the gasket NLA?
Which one is the correct gasket do I need and should I also use a gasket sealer.

The bottom bolt of the motor mount is a through bolt? It is wet also and when I took the bolt out oil came out from it. Is this normal or I have another issue?

Can anyone else chime and see from the pictures what other areas to check?

Thank you all so much
Ted
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There is a gasket. Too much goo for me.
Go for it.

https://aapistons.com/products/type-4-oil-p...UkaArYOEALw_wcB

Gasket is readily available, no sealant, loosen the bolts around it and pry the pump out using the ears.
Oil shouldn’t come out from the bolt hole, check for a crack?

I did the opposite, no gasket, just a lite coat of sealant.

I think there are a few things there that bother me.

One, way too much goo.
two, those nuts will melt and loosen, they are "nyloc" and the nylon will melt in that high heat application.

The bolt that holds the motor mount....I do recall that there are some bolts like that on the car that you must have in place regardless because they penetrate the oil galleys. Just seal the bolt properly.

Rich

Nyloc nuts will not melt on an engine. They will, however. melt on the exhaust studs.

Clay

I would look for a burr on either the cover or the case. Also check the cover for flatness. Clean all surfaces and a thin (.005 or so) if memory serves correctly.

If that were my engine, I would replace: (1) the thin paper gasket between the oil pump and the engine case (and use Permatex on it, not silicone sealer); (2) the o-ring inside the oil pump housing halves since the pump has to be removed anyway to check on the internal condition of the pump and check that the oil pump gear idler shaft has not started walking out of the pump body towards the cam gear; (3) the front crankshaft seal, and (4) the thin o-ring that rests behind the fan hub on the crankshaft. Why? Because you are already in there and it's cheap to replace all those seals - an engine gasket set can be found for between $60 to $80 depending where you shop and it will have all the seals needed to do this job right.

You can buy special nuts for the oil pump cover that prevents seeping from the 8mm studs. Unlike typical lock nuts, the red nylon actually goes face down.
Of course I don't have the stock oil pump on my engine.

Got a link to those or a searchable name that they go by ?


.

I believe the method I got from McMark was no gasket, loctite 542 bolt it back on. I did it that way with my 2056 and it was dry before I sold it.

I found these on Ebay, but you might find them at other VW online parts outlets. They are made by Elring, Part # 111115161

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175603807595?fits=...ABk9SR7j70Zn_YQ

These are not necessary for a stock pump, the internal o-ring seals it. These are useful on an aftermarket type 1 pump, but the pump should be o-rinded before installation.