Title says it all...

I am prepping my car for this installation, and need a little guideance -
I have an older kit, and want to know what others did for the installation, where you welded it , if you drilled more holes for the welds, etc - Please post pics -
This thing is 12ga. metal -

TIA,
TE

Clay - I know you installed one of these on your car....

there are 2 tech article on PP with the installation of his kit

Thanks Scott -
I still would like to know if others have any insights - I will check PP now -

TE

Best bet is to do it with the drivetrain out.....have a fire extinguiser handy and be prepared to screw up any paint job.....

The PO installed the ones on my '73. Looks like he did a peripheral weld, and drilled 5/16" holes completely through the stiffener and longs (and apparently the heat duct), inserted 5/16" threaded rod, big washers and nuts to clamp it all together, and tack welded the nuts/washers to the inner long, and outer stiffener.

Went out and counted 5 per side (rod/washer/nut), spaced about 7" apart. Let me know if you need a pic........I'll run to the store and get some batteries for the camera (AA's don't last long in a house with teenagers )

By the way, Brad Mayuer is a member of this forum (can't remember his screen name off hand), maybe he'll chime in or you could send him a PM for details.

Just about everything you need to know about the long kit.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...=ST&f=4&t=12376

I have a set of Jorgensen "Mastadon" add on jaws for pipe clamps, which are perfect for clamping the stiffener to the long.

If your front door jamb supports are ok, then I cut the piece to fit to that.

You have to remove the triangular sill supports.

I also cut little welding "windows" in the door sill, at the vertical reinforcment ribs. This is so you can weld the top of the reinforcement piece where it contacts those ribs. The holes in the panels should line up with these vertical ribs, and this is where you rosette or fishplate weld.

I've found it easiest to completely grind off the weep hole "blisters" (does that make sense?) so the long panel fits flush to the long. Then I take a hammer and pound the lip of the pinchweld inward, to reproduce the "blister" so you'll still have weep holes. Brad originally has you crush these flat, but now likes my method.

I later do my chassis corrosion treatment after welding everything up.

I know Brad does (sometimes) install these with the engine in the car, but I never would. All the cars I've put them on have been total projects though.

I'll see if I have pics.

A picture is worth a thousand words!

I didn't include the part about cleaning everything with soap and water, cleaning with prepsol, treating with acid, painting with weld through primer, etc.

Perry,
Thanks for your feedback -
Can you tell me which triangular supports - the ones that support the
rockers ?- got that done -

To be honest, your idea of opening windows on the sill to weld the top is ingenius, but I am not so sure I could hide my welds when everything was said and done -

I may drill holes there and weld them in that manner -

Paul - Brad M's kit is an Outer reinforcement kit, and each side is SUPER heavy duty -

TE

There are some pictures here of my car with the kit installed and exposed.

QUOTE (dakotaewing @ Aug 14 2005, 06:33 PM)

To be honest, your idea of opening windows on the sill to weld the top is ingenius, but I am not so sure I could hide my welds when everything was said and done -

Sounds like you've taken those supports off already.

On all the cars I've done the "windows" were covered by the black plastic sill covers.

The back piece that goes under the trailing arm mounting holes, will have about a 3/16" gap at the top between it and the inner wheel house. The first one I did, I just welded that gap with multiple passes. Subsequently, I use a piece of 1/8" gas welding rod as a filler and welded over that.

Hi there:

I would like to know were can I buy this kit?

Thanks

Taken from here:

I have the kit on my car, helped quite a bit, not to mention that I had some rust under my pass side jack point. If you can weld, even a little, its not too bad to do. The hardest thing for me was welding the downstanding flange to the kit. I did also add a few holes to weld through to the suspension console. The instructions were pretty good as well.

Mark

Possibly a more current e-mail:

p914@yahoo.com

While he owns a computer and has an e-mail account,
I think he is more an analog guy. I'd call him. He's usually
out to lunch with his mom on Fridays so try early morning or
late afternoon.

Paul

Thanks guys... I really need this.

I like the analog guy reference. I've known Brad since about 1974, and he's definately a "keep it simple", "get it done" kind of fellow. He may let the phone go to the answering machine if he's working, but he'll always get back to you when he can. Truly a great asset to our community.

I have his kit on one of my cars, and you can feel the difference.