All: The doors on our 74 have really great fit on the outside, but rattle quite a bit. When I pull on the door it can be pulled in just about an eighth of an inch and the rattling and squeaking stops.
Haynes show striker plates that can be shimmed, but the 74 has a later style that has two rubber tabs instead of screws.
Has anyone swapped styles and had good results?
All of the rubber on the car was replaced during a restoration in 2014-2016 and it's had less than 3000 miles since, and always been garaged as well.
Any idea would be helpful.
Thanks!

Adjust the striker. It should move in 4 directions. Silicone spray to stop squeak.

I don't feel that's the right fix. The door panel fit is perfect. I don't want to draw the door in to make it tight. The Dr. says that the restorer used aftermarket rubber during the restoration. I don't think that's the case but will look through the docs. to see if I can find anything.
To Me, the wedge shape of the plate and door striker make the fit happen. Just need to find out how to shim the plates on the car, or find a set like the ones pictured in the Haynes

had the same issues when I got my roller and doors had been off for the cars repainting.
I marked mine with painters tape top and bottom of latch after measuring the amount the door wasn't level with the outside of the car,two attempts and got it spot on.
Best not to undo the latch to much so a few taps with a soft hammer will give you a motor accurate setup,good luck,cheers.

I had similar issues in particular with my passenger door. It was restored with aftermarket rubber, but the seller, being the awesome guy that he is, stepped up and supplied me with OEM stuff. It’s much thicker, fit the door channel better (didn’t even use any glue,) and feels much better as well. No more rattles in the door closes flush with the body.

Pete

A pic for reference.

Click to view attachment

Take the 4 screws loose and tap the catch slightly inand sometimes just dow a hair as there is a wedge block to compensate and assist in preventing rattle.

Click to view attachment

Thanks Rick! So, I sent some pics to the Dr. And your photo confirms that the door seals on my car were installed backwards, and evidently there should be a seal on the door frame as well, and my car has none.
The PO spent quite a bit of money having a shop restore this car, I've spent two years finding and fixing things just like this. Terrible what some shops get away with.
I'll send an update when I have this corrected.
Making plans for Okteenerfest this year too!
RobClick to view attachment Click to view attachment

The door seals are backwards. The door rubber is not the reason you are having noise.
In fact we make one that is actually quitter. The material is a neoprene at 25 durometer. It will not hold water like the OEM and actually makes a nice heavy thud when the door is closed letting you know the rubber is making contact and the is ZERO air noise when you drive form the door.

Given the timing of the restoration I would guess you have my door seals. You can tell pretty quickly as they are heavier (due to the density of the material). and are NOT a foam rubber. Meaning that when you look at the end cut, there are no "bubbles" - it is a solid homogenous material.

DO take them out and flip them around. The material will not require glue. You push the edge in at he triangle window seal, and stretch it to make thinner, them push into the channel. When you release the tension, the rubber expands. This holds it into the channel nicely. I think you may find this will solve your problem.

The inner door also has no seal bulb on it. It should be this -

https://914rubber.com/inner-door-seal-set-1

Notice yours has no bulb whatsoever!.

Also notice the threshold is held down with a screw. Should really be a plastic push rivet, but you may not be able to go back if the screw made the hole bigger.

Thanks for the input. I have Genuine Porsche seals coming. The seals on the car seem OK once I turned them around but figured new would be better. The thresholds were screwed on when I got the car and I screwed ‘em back down after putting your carpet set in.
Thinking about new door panels, mine are not awful but each has two speaker holes and grills that I don’t like. How do your panels compare with the Sierra Madge panels?
And what size hole would accept the pins for the thresholds?
Rob

Rob I suspect the threaholds could still use the push rivets.

I'd be happy to throw you a set in on your next order. Just put that in the notes when you order to include as per me.

Do check the type of rubber the OEM ones are. It you have my door seals you will see a difference in the density of the material.
We used solid neoprene rubber (which is significantly more expensive) to make ours. You can easily clean our up with goof off.

I would suspect the OEM are sponge rubber (as the original ones were). It is lighter and will not make a solid sound when closing the door.

They also are "sponge" rubber, and you guessed it hold water like a sponge in the track. Which is why many doors have a rusted track.


Please post up what you find.

Hey everyone: Put original Porsche gaskets in the door and the frame. What a difference! Doors fit perfectly, no rattles, and I can no longer see the pavement through the door gap. Thanks everyone for your input.
Rob