I need manifold vaccuum ports, and I lack them.

I want to drill and tap for a fitting for vac hoses to attach to (IE head breather, etc.)

only issue is that I don't know what the carb base looks like inside....

does it have four barrels or is it open inside??

you all know what I have, the single progressive weber.....

STOP! The head breather ports DO NOT go to vacuum. They go to the air cleaner. The Cap'n

There should be some vacuum-side nipples (at least one) on the Weber itself. It may be plugged now. You can tee off of these if you really need vacuum signals. As The Cap'n says, the head breathers don't go there, they go in the air cleaner. If you need air cleaner ports, and you have a K&N doodad on top, then use 90d angle'd fittings that you can epoxy into place on the top lid of the filter, and push hoses onto.

Other than the distributor (if you have a vacuum distributor), nothing else on the engine should require manifold vacuum. Everything else should go into the air cleaner.

i see what you mean cap't, but is there enough vaccuum in the regular air cleaner ports....




the main thing i wanted to put into this fitting was the vaccuum retard connection.....

What do you need vaccum for?????? you wanna suck oil out of your engine and into the carbs. Really cool way to cause detonation and a lot of smoke. Yup going in to the intake manifolds I imagine you could drain your engine of oil in about 5 miles.
What you need is a CB or EMPI breather box and plumb your cylinder head port vent to it. PCV too.

You know there is a web site that it title "how stuff works" CHECK IT OUT.

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 15 2005, 03:51 PM)

i see what you mean cap't, but is there enough vaccuum in the regular air cleaner ports.... the main thing i wanted to put into this fitting was the vaccuum retard connection.....

They don't go to vacuum because they don't need vacuum. If you need a vac retard or vac advance port, the carb should have them. I don't remember much about 'em, since I threw the last one away over 10 years ago. The Cap'n

hmmm....

i'll take a look tomorrow.

aren't you still running a goddamned progressive?

yeah.

and......?

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 16 2005, 09:48 AM)

yeah. and......?

you don't need vaccuum on that POS, you need a real set of carbs...

"real carbs" cost around $1200 which isnt in my budget.

this carb works really well...i'm impressed.

i might ask my uncles that work at holley if they could score me some carbs tho.

from louisville to dayton and back on less than a tank of gas....not to shabby.

used to be a 3/8 tank from bowling green to louisville

don't bother drilling into it... just stay with it as it is...

what do you hope to accomplish with the vacuum?


the carbs do work, but not always for very long... please get a head temp sensor, at the VERY least...


of course you are using less gas, you are feeding your engine through a straw. progressives can't get the gas mix right...

I was on the path of getting a CHT guage....

vaccuum retard fitting, but someone said there should already be such fitting on the carb.

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 16 2005, 06:58 AM)

"real carbs" cost around $1200 which isnt in my budget. this carb works really well...i'm impressed. i might ask my uncles that work at holley if they could score me some carbs tho. from louisville to dayton and back on less than a tank of gas....not to shabby. used to be a 3/8 tank from bowling green to louisville

Dual 40IDFs only cost $1200 if you insist on getting new ones. A used pair of carbs only can be had for $200 on Ebay all day long. You can usually pick up a complete setup with manifolds and linkage for under $400. Rebuild kits are $30 per carb, and jets are $5 a pop. If you shop carefully, you can have a complete, running pair for $450 or thereabouts. You can sell the single carb setup to some other yutz on Ebay for $150, so your net cost is $300.

Judging from the way the market has been going, these prices will only go DOWN. It appears there's a Chinese factory gearing up to make IDF and DCOE knock-offs, and rumor is you'll be able to get a complete setup with manifolds, linkage, filters, etc., and new carbs for $300 in a couple of months. The used stuff will only get cheaper as a result, as people won't pay THAT big a premium for Italian (or Spanish) made Webers. The price for a used pair of 40IDFs was $400 just a year ago. Now, it's half that.

All that said, you'd be better off assembling EFI with used D-Jet parts and Megasquirt...

the italian webers on a /6 look almost downright sexy.

if i got some /4 webers, i hoped they would look the same way.

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 16 2005, 07:58 AM)

this carb works really well...i'm impressed.

if this is the case, why don't you just leave it alone until you can afford to do it right...?

thats what i plan to do....


i forget why i even asked.....