My understanding is 930 valve covers are the most leak resistant but I have also heard they must be machined to clear the suspension mounting bolt.
Can anyone out there identify where the machining is required.
TIA for any help.
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driver's side...

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You don't have to take that wide of a section off. Here is what mine looks like on the car.Click to view attachment

Great…….thanks for the help.

https://pmbperformance.com/products/930-tur...=42805954379954


Deal of the century. 99 bucks each, professionally milled both sides for a 914-6.


I dont have access to a machine shop so this was an EZ decision.

Yes they are the most leak resistant with the right gasket,I use the Victor Reinz ones with the silicone bead on them, also be aware that if you buy used ones they may not be flat still,mine needed a quick lapping on a sheet of glass,interesting how the LH milled one required more to get flat ?.

I had to take a little more off on both sides from what the picture shows. If you can install engine without the covers and then try to fit.....much better then what I had to grind off under the car to remove then for the first time. Best, Mark

BTW, they only need to be milled if you wish to remove the covers while motor is installed. My 6 is not milled, I drop engine/trans to do valves.

Thats ok but if you are driving a lot reckon that would be a PITA for such a simple modification,not like its a quick job to remove a 6 cylinder engine unless you have a hoist.
You don't need to use a mill to remove the material ,a grinder flapper wheel will do the same job and touch up with a good flat file.
Certainly a great upgrade over leaking bent magnesuim covers,I resurfaced mine twice and they ended up leaking again after a while.
Cheers.

Alternate choice.
993 covers.
Requires machining for clearance and shorter studs.
Provides modern sealing system.

Rory - you would think the modern seals on the 993 engines would be great but we still see leaks from them. One car in particular was a 13,000 mile car.
We have a granite surface stone and it makes a big difference flattening the older style covers. Stick on sandpaper and the sealing surface is flat and clean in five minutes.

I think it’s easier out of the car. It’s too hard up and down In the car in my opinion

Now you tell me !
Is that a consistent issue ?
I'm at 0 mileage...fingers crossed

They aren’t bad. It’s just not the sure thing you think it would be with that design. We will still often lay in a small bead of sealant to make sure it doesn’t come back 100 miles later. And that’s after cleaning all the mating surfaces really well.

New to the 914-6 world.
For Clarification:
With the modified (milled) valve covers, can you remove them all the way to get to the valves with the engine in the car? I'd like to keep the engine installed while I adjust the valves for the first time on my rebuild 6. Have a quickjack. Or is it just to much of a bitch with the engine in?

I do the valves on my -6 racecar after every single event weekend
So maybe 5-6 times each summer without removing the engine

Yes milling them allows them to be removed with the engine installed

That’s good news. It looks like a very tight fit trying to access the valves. Imagining your racing an unmodified street body type 914. I have a aftermarket set of exhaust headers heat exchangers that are really tough to get on and off so I’d prefer her not to pull the engine to adjust the valves. Creates a lot of work with the oil cooling lines and all the other items needing disconnecting. Thanks. Todd

Unfortunately I do pull the headers off of my car to do the valves on the six
Better than pulling the motor though

I just drop the engine and tranny low enough to have easy access to top and bottom (8-10 inches or so), car stays on its wheels on a 4 post lift…

I am amazed at the number of ways to “ skin the proverbial cat”…..thanks !!!