I can't be the only owner of a 914 that has had deteriorating rubber fuel lines but I can't seem to find the right posts covering this. Basically the fabric covered rubber fuel lines seem to deteriorate and split probably as a result of the ethanol in the fuel. Does anyone know if there are any replacements that hold up with the ethanol fuel. I ordered a new 7mm line from Pelican Parts and it seems to be the same German fabric covered rubber that was originally installed.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-914-Fuel-Lines-srch.html

Not necessarily recommending you buy the kits from AA, but here is a link as a starting point.

I’ve bought the ss lines from tangerine racing a couple times. Very recommended

https://tangerineracing.com/shop/ols/categories/fuel-system

For correct you need to use the fabric covered. However i purchased new lines specifically rated for FI from flaps for piece of mind. This, coupled with stainless steel, was perfect and safe.

Could you send link for "flaps" not sure I know who they are.

Thanks

FLAPS=friendly local auto parts store

LOL... I asked that same question years ago on Rennlist. Not the current Rennlist, but when it was a email bbs system before Club/World even existed.

So don't feel embarrassed.

I used advanced auto. Make sure they sell you FI hose. The carb pressures are MUCH lower.

I did the same. I walk in back and pick out what I need from the rolls of fuel hose. They also carry the correct fuel clamps.

Yes the clamps are important!!! Do not use the crappy ones that are all holes. They will pinch and apply uneven pressure across the hose.

Napa has always done good by me for fuel hose and band clamps.

Gates Barricade

OK....I just went through this....when I would head out to the car and see a puddle of gas under it it kinda' ruined my mood to even start the car let alone go on a drive. I used the fabric covered lines to be correct and "european" but the ethanol in Los Angeles chews them right up. The fix is using R30 9 fuel line from Gates or Continental.....Cadna 50087 is the Continental brand at advanced auto parts....what a difference!!!! Good luck....doing all of the work under the car left me with a stiff neck...took two months...no leaks now though....Euro trash !!!
gg

AA sells an engine compartment fuel line kit. I've replaced them on a couple of cars along with the tunnel lines with stainless from Tangerine Racing. You'll need a bit of extra hose to do the gas tank to the stainless lines and lines from the rear firewall to the stainless lines Chris supplies that go from underneath the engine to the engine compartment.

Thanks. Great input

I got a “kit” from 914rubber
I also had to order the pre bent injector lines from pelican

All new clamps , smooth fuel line clamps, not serrated.

I’m pretty sure Chris still sells all 4 ss lines. Engine and tunnel. You can call him and ask but that’s where I’ve always bought mine.

And Chris is a great guy to work with

I just did new lines in my Bumblebee with Chris's lines. The kit came with 5. There is a small reducer that connects to the larger supply line coming from the fuel tank down to the smaller hose size.

I got my fuel line set (still have to install) from Tangerine Racing. I got my fuel hose from Rock Auto as they had the best price per foot/meter at the time Gates Barricade EFI hose. I also purchased a set of fuel injection hose clamp assortment from amazon.

Do no use the cloth covered fuel line.
Even the stuff they say is rated for Ethanol. Just don't.

First of all, its not SAE rated. And it looks just like the old non-ethanol line. Even if a seller is not trying to get rid of old stock, you don't know what you are getting.

Second, the fabric covering hides cracking issues that may be developing in the rubber, making a visual inspection pointless. You can't see a problem till the fuel line is wet with gas seeping through.

I know this past spring it was hard to find the proper SAE 30r9 rated fuel line locally, but a little calling around found what I needed.

I, personally, will only use a fuel line that has the SAE rating printed on the line.

I think I am facing replacing all the lines. Did you have to remove the fuel tank to get to the hoses that go into the tank. My 914 is a 1975 so the fuel pump is in the front trunk but I think I still need to remove the tank to access the hoses. There is a small access plate under the car but it doen't look big enough to easily change hoses. Your thoughts?

Alan

Yes, you want to pull the tank out. Its not that much effort.

On my tank I put a molex connector on the three wires that go to the gas gauge sender so I can just unplug that rather then un-bolt the filler and all that jazz.

Once the tank is drained (which I do by siphoning out the top) its only about 15 minutes to pull out the tank.

Zach

Thank you Zach! I appreciate the info!

Is the original fuel line connections between the tank and the back of the 914 metal? Or does the stainless line option replace actual rubber lines?

I must say this is one of the easier jobs on a 914. I am new to the 914 crowd, 3 years and was hearing all this and that regarding the original plastic fuel lines. Looking at the project my gut was saying this will be a major pita job. Once I got into it the job went very well, in part due to Mr Chris Foley down at Tangerine Racing. Yes the fuel tank must be removed.

The stainless kit everyone is talking about replaces the fuel lines in the tunnel. The original are a plastic material. There are a couple more stainless lines in the engine bay as well, but most are referring to the tunnel in particular.

@VaccaRabite please tell me more about the molex connector. Sounds like a very good idea. Maybe a picture if available….

….

Its really easy, and there are a TON of 3 gang connectors on the market right now. I used Molex as I could find it easily at Radio Shack (which is also a hint at how long ago I did this - all the local shacks have been gone for ages here). But really any 3 pin connector will work, including just crimping on male and female spade connectors. Just make sure they are shrink tubed so they don't short against each other.

Zach

Molex

I like the idea. Thank you.

Molex / AMP connector need? A difference between years or between -4’s & -6’s?

I have the gas tank out of my ‘70 914/6 for cleaning, fuel line replacement, etc. The wiring harness has an electrical connector that easily plugs & unplugs to / from the gas tank level sending unit.

Further clarification may help future readers …