Have Boge 911 struts with Saches matching inserts and both sides have a few millimeters of up and down movement when on axle stands.
Quick look as it started raining ,but had time to fit a random washer to take up the slack and that did nothing.
Thinking the inserts aren't seated hard down in the base of the struts ,both external thread top nuts appeared to be evenly tight when I fitted the inserts ,anyone had this issue ?.
TIA ,cheers.
Full Version: Front strut up and down movement ,when off the ground ?
If it is free play, then you will need to eliminate that.
QUOTE(porschetub @ Jul 25 2023, 01:22 PM) 
Have Boge 911 struts with Saches matching inserts and both sides have a few millimeters of up and down movement when on axle stands.
Quick look as it started raining ,but had time to fit a random washer to take up the slack and that did nothing.
Thinking the inserts aren't seated hard down in the base of the struts ,both external thread top nuts appeared to be evenly tight when I fitted the inserts ,anyone had this issue ?.
TIA ,cheers.
When you installed the strut inserts, did you torque the retaining nuts to spec? When I installed new Bilstein strut inserts in the front of my 74 914, they had a spec of 90ft lbs from Bilstein with their special tool attachment to torque the retaining nuts to spec.
Sometimes they are installed without all the needed bumper stops. I would pull one, open it up and see what’s there. Leave the strut on the car. Jack up the corner. Remove the wheel. Loosen from the top and push the strut down past the fender lip and then you can open it up while still on the car. Use a pipe wrench to remove the gland nut they holds the insert into the strut. Sometimes it’s just a matter of the gland but coming loose. 10 -15 minute project. Reinstall the strut using a jack under the a-arm.
I would also suggest examining the upper strut mount
QUOTE(mepstein @ Jul 26 2023, 10:50 AM)
Sometimes they are installed without all the needed bumper stops. I would pull one, open it up and see what’s there. Leave the strut on the car. Jack up the corner. Remove the wheel. Loosen from the top and push the strut down past the fender lip and then you can open it up while still on the car. Use a pipe wrench to remove the gland nut they holds the insert into the strut. Sometimes it’s just a matter of the gland but coming loose. 10 -15 minute project. Reinstall the strut using a jack under the a-arm.
Thanks Mark thats what I was thinking ,there enough room to do that but I will need to lock the strut from turning when I undo the cap nut,will come up with something .
Dave ,yes correct I could never pass our roadworthy inspection with them like that.
Rich ,top bushes are fine ,all parts were inspected before fitment of the inserts and all good condition I'am an engineer and real fussy about these sorts of things.
I did however replace the tierod ends as the original ones has perished grease boots.
The tie rods will keep the strut from turning.
Getting old but I do remember something like this a very long time ago....
I had this once on a 911 and it was the glad nut....just would not go down tight enough....not by much but just a few mm leaving slack....I think it was on a early hydromatic strut and seems like it had a different glad nut....a little thicker a the top rim....it just would not seal around the shock insert tight enough....used another glad nut and fixed the problem.
I had this once on a 911 and it was the glad nut....just would not go down tight enough....not by much but just a few mm leaving slack....I think it was on a early hydromatic strut and seems like it had a different glad nut....a little thicker a the top rim....it just would not seal around the shock insert tight enough....used another glad nut and fixed the problem.
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