So the other day an older gentleman neighbor at our new place stopped by and said he'd seen the 914 out front and proceeds to start a question with:

"Would you be interested in..."
My brain immediately assumed he was going to ask if it was for sale, but he followed that up with:
"acquiring another one? I've got a 1970 with a 2.0liter VW motor."

To which I said: "Maybe! The wife probably wouldn't be very happy with me but we just won't tell her."

I have not looked at it yet, I want to stop by this week sometime after work and get eyes on it.
Obviously the '70 make didn't come in 2.0 standard but no reason it hasn't been hot-rodded into a 2.0 at some point.
I am not sure if there are any special issues to look out for on the early models? I've got the '74 2.0 already and am aware of the hell hole check, sagging longs, and such. Will check for wiring hack jobs and just general condition of things.

I wasn't planning on getting another car right after moving, and just getting started with a fairly major remodel, but we will see...

The 1970 did come in a 2.0 engine. It was a 6.

Fair enough!

I would hope that anyone who owns a 914 would not call a -6 a "VW motor" though.
That would be quite something if it did have a -6 in it! I know of at least one other original -6 here in town.

Get the Carfax.

The actual issues are the standard 914 ones--
1- Rust
2- Corrosion
3- Tinworm.

Differences (unless updates have been made) will include things like a non-movable passenger's seat, non-retractable seatbelts, a different window raising/lowering mechanism (supposed to be less reliable), a longer and more fiddly shift linkage, a single defrost vent in the dash instead of the two, no side vents on the dashboard face, the folding parking brake handle.... And more stuff that isn't as easily seen.

But the actual problems are generally the typical 914 ones mentioned above.

--DD

What is tinworm?

Anytime I get asked a similar question the answer is always yes. I'm always interested. Whether I can afford it, have the space, time, etc that is the real question.

Well I stopped by and had a quick look at the car, it's better than I expected but worse than I hoped

It is semi taken apart currently, with the interior out and various trim off etc.

The motor is indeed a "VW" -4 motor with Webers (no idea on actual displacement other than he says it's a 2 liter), the old local VW mechanic built the motor and he always did good work for me until he passed a few years back. Would likely just need a refresh with some new seals and new valve springs etc.

Longs looked really good from what I could tell, the covers were already off and I didn't see any rust areas in structural parts, just some very slight surface rust around a few of the welds on the longs where paint had flaked a bit. Would rub off with my finger.

The bigger concerns are rust elsewhere, the paint has some bubbling in various areas. Top of the front fenders near the windshield and around some of those similar spots around the car. And the low spots in the floors underneath the seats have some rust holes.

Everything looks pretty stock and not hacked up and mangled by any PO's.


Now the question is price, he didn't really have anything in mind and my perception is a bit warped having my '74 nearly given to me at $3k running and driving.
Obviously it's going to need a lot of work and a lot of parts to get it back on the road, but it's lived under a carport for a long while and doesn't seem to be a cancerous patient that needs extensive surgery.

Does offering $1200 to start with seem fair or is that a lowball offer? Facebook and Craigslist are anywhere from $1k - $28k. I asked what he was looking to get for it and he didn't have an answer so I told him I would do some research and come back with an offer.

How good are you with a welder?

Rust. Another way to read that list is:
1- Rust
2- Rust
3- Rust

Reasonably good, been doing MIG and TIG for almost 10 years now. Not a ton of sheet metal experience though.

You’ll would know the condition/scope of work on the floors after the tar is removed. Rust bubbles around the window/cowl area? Plan on a new windshield as chances are it will break upon removal to address the rust. While you’re in there…..

Does your wife love and adore the 914 you currently own?

With inflation driving restoration parts and supplies ever skyward, I would pass on a project like this personally. Much more economical to find a better specimen. Sounds like a good parts car to have on hand, if you have the room to store it.

Osnabruck914

I’ve only been in this forum a short while, yet it’s amazing how often I hear, ‘that’s a parts car’.

Maybe I’m jaded by some of the 356’s and split window Buses I’ve worked on, but in my mind, if it’s a Porsche, you fix it. The aren’t making them anymore and they won’t be any cheaper.

Yep, maybe $1200 but not more. Those “bubbles” extend WAY beyond what you see. Really can’t fix those spots without full fender replacements. AMHIK!
A 74 (2L?) just popped up on aFacebook group. In the garage for 30 years. Doubt it’s in the VIN database, so posted an inquiry.

Well the '70 is added to the database and is sitting next to the house now. Won't be able to do anything with it for quite some time but something to do when I get bored maybe
Longs looks solid but floors are shot and underneath is pretty rough. Hell hole isn't too bad, a little crusty but couldn't poke a screwdriver through it so there's that at least. Hood to fender gaps look a bit odd to me. Not sure what is up with that.

Immediate game plan is probably drop motor and trans, go through the motor and carbs and see how she runs. Will then probably put the motor in my Squareback since it's supposedly been built into a 2.0 (will be verified when motor is apart), and I've got a 1.7 in the VW right now.

It came with new Stoddard floor pans so that's nice. Here's some photos for now. Vin added to the registry.

Good luck with your project!

The longs have had the Brad Mayer repair panels. Chances are, there are no more long behind it…

This is a full on restoration project!

Have welder, will weld.


Once the house is done being remodeled anyways

I expected to see that you were located somewhere where they salt the roads, but was surprised to see you're in CA. That car looks to have lived a life outside. You definitely have your work cut out for you. Good luck!

Might have been in a flood. That would explain why both longs appears to be rusted away.

Why are the door gaps so tight?

A high quality paint job is $20-25k, no matter what car you paint. It’s easier to justify on a high end car. Add $20k in rust repair, money for engine overhaul and trans rebuild and you have a very expensive 914. Ok for some but not everyone wants to commit big $ to a 914.

Because it has stated to bend in the middle , might have happened before the longs were repaired or when they were boxed over due to welding,appears to have hits on both sides in the front too ,real sad to see ,I have minor rust in my car but couldn't deal with that kind of repair .
Good luck regardless .

Well once I have resources to allocate to it we will find out if it's doomed to help others survive or if it will be salvageable. Will burn that bridge when we get to it, there will be plenty of gruesome photos posted at that point to see what the brain trust thinks.

Some sentimental part of me hopes I can save it, but the more realistic side says probably the other way around.

Even harder to justify since you are in Cali with lots of better cars to choose from. That would even be rough for an east coast car.

Anything is saveable, but at what cost?

Or just weld in the new floor, get the engine running, wash the darn thing, and then enjoy driving it. You don't need to make it even remotely perfect, just safe.

I don't say this even half jokingly... probably best thing about that car is the original CA plates AND that there are both of them.

Other than that:

30k to do it right and if you do it yourself with a regular day job....5-8 years depending on your age and physical health.

Why not save you money and go after a better car?

The way that roller looks...the rear suspension is ready to completely fall apart.

Only my opinion and I'm glad you are here.... just trying to give a realistic effort estimate from experience for your consideration.

Parting (and cutting up) a car does remove it permanently but still helps other cars get back on the road.

There are some big issues with shut lines on that car.
I'll bet it was much shorter at one time.
Look at the 'parallel' front hood / fender gaps.
1970 interior parts in excellent condition are important to 914 6 owners