I have decided to ditch my carb setup for fuel injection. I have a 1973 2.0. Can anyone tell me the difference in years between the systems and what I should be looking for?

2.0 had the Djet system. You’re gonna need the plenum/air filter assembly with the throttle body and switch, three hole intake runners, injectors, ECU, AAR, thermo time switch, MPS, hoses, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and probably a thing or two I’m forgetting. Obviously your best bet is to find a complete system that has been removed, usually for carbs.

It seems the trend has been towards FI, but they’re out there

Good luck with the search

Go to Jeff Bowlsby’s website. It contains a table of the parts and part numbers by year. There were changes between the years as the emissions standards got tougher to meet. The fi system was a complete package including the distributor.

(Ive posted this before)

COMPLETE OE D-Jet FI package (2.0L example)

Items you want to ensure you get in any kit include:

Electronic Control Unit (specific to MY) & Bracket
Injection harness (specific to displacement & MY)
Ignition harness (specific to D-Jet)
Manifold pressure sensor (specific to displacement)
Ignition distributor (w/trigger points & vacuum advance)
Cylinder head temp Sensor
Fuel pressure regulator, adjustable
Intake runners (x2) (specific to displacement/heads)
Plenum (correct for MY, Vac.line connection differences)
Air box (correct for MY, Vac.line & EGR connection differences)
Oil fill tower (correct for MY, PCV valve->74 74-> w/o)
Fuel injectors (x4 Green 2.0L, Yellow 1.7L, or aftermarket)
Fuel injector retainers (x4)
Fuel line clamps (x18 approx. NON-SERRATED!)
Fuel rails (x1 straight, x1 T'd)
Flashback valve (->74, 75-> none)
Deceleration valve
Throttle body (specific to displacement)
Throttle position switch (specific to displacement)
Thermo-time switch (specific to MY)
Cold start injector & hose block
Intake air temp sensor
Auxiliary air valve
High pressure Fuel Pump (->74 3 port, 75-> 2 port)

Consumables (items not necessarily included & you'd probably want to replace):

Fuel Filter
Fuel Lines (7.5mm OE)
Air Filter (specific to displacement)
Throttle Body Gasket (specific to displacement)
Vacuum lines (various size & length)
Injector seals (x4)
PCV valve (depending on MY, if you can find one, otherwise disassemble clean & reuse)
Intake / plenum hose seals (x4)
Phenolic intake spacers (x2)

Note -
Late cars had additional emission equipment, Air pump Brackets & piping
CA cars had further plumbing and electronic components including a specific Gauge bezel with idiot lights,
Dual speedo cables with trip computer
EGR sensor in a dual chamber muffler
EGR piping to that muffler

Your car already had carbs on it, so you should at least consider an aftermarket modern EFI kit. They are far better than carbs, and better than the stock D-Jet Fuel Injection. The parts are readily available, and you can tune them to your engine to get maximum power and fuel economy out of it.

Bring a big pile of C-notes to the party

DJet or LJet, if the parts used are correct and functional for your given engine, are plug n play. No tuning or customization needed. All the needed parts are available for these factory spec systems. It’s a main feature of the factory systems that is attractive to many.

Aftermarket systems can also be good solutions, but understand that they are generic systems and typically require one to design and build a harness, and tune the system to your engine which is no small task and often requires special tools, knowledge and most importantly huge amounts of time. If you are a curious tinkerer or engineering- oriented type then aftermarket EFI may be the solution for you. Good aftermarket systems are not cheap. Note that some of the aftermarket systems are experimental and not very technically robust solutions.

Is anyone aware of an aftermarket EFI system on the market that is plug n play for our cars, in stock configuration? (1.7, 1.8. 2.0). I am not. Seems to be a holy grail item.

I agree with Jeff, D-Jet is a simple solution for a type 4. Biggest problem for aftermarket FI on a type 4 is the fan on the end of the crank, no place to set up the trigger.

You stated that your engine has carbs on it. If the cam was changed to a carb friendly cam with more lift/duration than stock, then it won’t work well with the Djet FI. The only good aftermarket cam that works well with Djet is the one designed by Jake Raby and sold by the Type 4 Store.

The car has dual 34ict's and I just don't think that will do it. Unforunately, the cam was changed to hydraulic and a broken lifter is why my 2.0 is all over the shop as we speak.
So I'm replacing the cam and lifters anyhow. If I have to throw a grand at some 40's then I was thinking I might as well go back to original. I have some experience with aftermarket systems. I did an MR2 with a silver top but it came with all the sensors. And as mentioned, where would you put the trigger wheel? I think, thanks to you guys, I probably have the info I need to gather up the parts.

Damn, the truth hurts.

Thank you for such a comprehensive list. Exactly what I was looking for.

There are things that need to match
https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm#parts

High level, the ECU and MPs need to match
TPS is available new (circuit board)
MPs rebuild kits are available
CHT is available new

You will need a set of matching parts, a new wiring harness (wiring with a 50 year old harness will drive you crazy)
A distributor that will work, either used or a 123 with a trigger point signal

I think the rest can be bought used
The AAR and cold start injector may mean you buy a few used ones till you find a good one.

As I’m sure has been stated, the camshaft will impact your tuning and performance.

If you elect to go with aftermarket FI, Mario at the Dub Shop has a very nice product line and is very knowledgeable.

Here is the crank trigger he has developed for the Type 4 engine (picture taken from his website). It is bolt-on, no modifications.

https://thedubshop.com/type-4-crank-trigger/

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