On a Subie JDM EZ30D, with the intake removed, I had the seller remove the intake, and I was wondering if all that is going to be a oil burner, or good engine?
I'm guessing it may not be good??
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Full Version: Intake removal
Does that engine have direct injection? This is very common as the intake to the heads is dry (no fuel) and does not keep the base of the valves clean from carbon.
I the pics the stems and valves look clean so the head/seals appear to be in good shape. Im NOT a Subaru Tech but I do not think you have a problem..Clean and run it as is
I the pics the stems and valves look clean so the head/seals appear to be in good shape. Im NOT a Subaru Tech but I do not think you have a problem..Clean and run it as is
QUOTE(rfinegan @ Aug 11 2023, 03:52 AM) 
Does that engine have direct injection? This is very common as the intake to the heads is dry (no fuel) and does not keep the base of the valves clean from carbon.
I the pics the stems and valves look clean so the head/seals appear to be in good shape. Im NOT a Subaru Tech but I do not think you have a problem..Clean and run it as is
I haven't bought it yet.
I don't know if it's direct injection?
Doesn't look DI to me.
Looks like a normal intake path on a 150K motor with limited "intake cleaning jobs"
Might be fine, might be an oil burner.
Doesn't look WET which is a plus.
Doesn't look great either...
Looking at the intake track is not a good way to determine oil consumption.
Compression test and leak down arn't good oil consumption test either.
No good way to test for oil consumtion besides driving it for a while and checking oil level.
Loose valve guides/bad stem seals will not show up on any test. Same with bad oil control rings. Those could all be trash and the comp and leak down might show perfection.
Exhaust port might be a better indicator of oil consumption. Clean and light deposits would be good. 1/4" thick coating would be bad.
Still might not show destruction.
Most of the time an oil burner's ports will look wet, but if it's been out awhile that might dry up a bit.
Looks just OLD to me. By the time I have something like that out I'm ripping it apart anyways...
Looks like a normal intake path on a 150K motor with limited "intake cleaning jobs"
Might be fine, might be an oil burner.
Doesn't look WET which is a plus.
Doesn't look great either...
Looking at the intake track is not a good way to determine oil consumption.
Compression test and leak down arn't good oil consumption test either.
No good way to test for oil consumtion besides driving it for a while and checking oil level.
Loose valve guides/bad stem seals will not show up on any test. Same with bad oil control rings. Those could all be trash and the comp and leak down might show perfection.
Exhaust port might be a better indicator of oil consumption. Clean and light deposits would be good. 1/4" thick coating would be bad.
Still might not show destruction.
Most of the time an oil burner's ports will look wet, but if it's been out awhile that might dry up a bit.
Looks just OLD to me. By the time I have something like that out I'm ripping it apart anyways...
A 2002.
Not direct in 02.
Everything is 21 years old!
I've banned anything over 20 during my busy season.
Parts are hard to find for stuff that old.
You can find Chinese crap, but the good Japanese parts will be a bitch.
All the rubber is suspect, Minimum I'd change all the seals, the valve stem seals, valve cover gasket crap.
I'd do a leak down on the engine stand and most likely R&R the heads to lap the valves (might end up with a head job).
Everything that rotates on a bearing on the front of the engine would get changed.
T-belt and the related junk, renew cooling system, the list goes on...
I'd be buying that engine at core prices, not rebuilt 3 years ago prices.
How much do they want?
Everything is 21 years old!
I've banned anything over 20 during my busy season.
Parts are hard to find for stuff that old.
You can find Chinese crap, but the good Japanese parts will be a bitch.
All the rubber is suspect, Minimum I'd change all the seals, the valve stem seals, valve cover gasket crap.
I'd do a leak down on the engine stand and most likely R&R the heads to lap the valves (might end up with a head job).
Everything that rotates on a bearing on the front of the engine would get changed.
T-belt and the related junk, renew cooling system, the list goes on...
I'd be buying that engine at core prices, not rebuilt 3 years ago prices.
How much do they want?
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