I’ve done plenty of 356 valve adjustments…. Now it’s time for the 914-6. I got a set of the feeler gauges and I’m gonna dive into it. Any pointers would be appreciated also what are the correct specs. I will be replacing the valve cover gaskets once I’m finished as well.

Thanks

Which lower valve covers do you have? Turbo ones? If so have they been milled? If not you will need to drop the engine a little.

Do you have the curved valve tool p214 or something? If not do you have angled feeler gauge? You will need the tool or angled OR the z block and a dial gauge.

.1 mm or .004" is what they are set to.

Since it's a bit of a pain to see the pulley, might be easiest to look at the cam for backside adjustment method.

Easiest way to advance to the next valve is to just put the car in gear, while on a lift or jack stands, and have someone slowly turn the tire while you look at the mark.

Drop the motor and trans out of the car.

You have to drain the oil to remove the lower valve covers anyway. And you can adjust the valves and replace the alternator belt much easier with the engine out.

You will spend more time and have more frustration trying to adjust the valves down in bottom of that narrow hole.


Just my $.02

Clay

I was gonna say, with how easy it is to drop a motor in these you might want to consider removing it for the valves.

Yeah, I think we spent maybe 7 hours total doing the valve adjustment in my car. Probably would have been a whole lot easier if we dropped the motor. Maybe the same time overall though.

My GT tribute had sat for years when I bought it. A few winters ago, I got it running but then pulled the motor to inspect, adjust valves, etc.

We have a retired Porsche/VW tech who does house calls and teaches, inspects, tells good stories.

He said back in the day, the dealer techs all dropped the 6 engines to do a valve adjust. It was just faster for them and working to book, hours they were ahead of the game.

In progress.

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Clay is 100% right here. This is the only way I do it now. I can have the engine on the floor in less then an hour. I did this on my brothers 6 conv. only issue we ran into was getting the RJ mount to line up just right. The drop was easy but the install was a pain. Mainly do the angle of the engine while on the jack and chassis on the stands. The next time I do it I'm gonna try the new hydraulic lift table from HF. See how it goes then.

If you have the proper 914-6 flywheel or at least a flywheel properly marked, fairly straight forward to adjust the valves with engine in car.

Im with remove engine…
Been down that road plus you probably can do a few other things that should be done.

I have headers now, and I don't think it's so bad that removing the engine is
worth it. When I had the original heat exchangers on there, it was really tough,
and I removed the exhaust once.