So after the general consensus was to pull the engine and trans to adjust the valves on my 914-6.... I did it. It really wasn't that bad. I'm sure putting it back will be more difficult. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. Having said that, what else should I do, inspect or look for while the motor and trans are out? Obviously I'll be cleaning the areas, & replacing alternator belt. Anything else? Thanks!

If you have points, replace them, anything that's hard to get at. Even spark plugs if you want.

On a motor I didn't know the history on I'd pull all the tins/air shrouds for cleaning and inspection.

I'd be prone to replace any seal I could get to easily. Front seal, rear main, tranny output, there are probably others specific to the engine.

Motor mounts/tranny mounts.

Serious clean-up of the engine and the bay.

Adjust, clean, repair the tins.

New outer engine tin to body seals.

I'd check or replace the clutch depending on age/appearance.
New TOB, new pilot.

I'd look at everything out as it is far easier to fix stuff now.

I'd think about the stuff in the transmission tunnel.

Fuel lines to metal if they haven't been done.

I'd look at all the cables, clutch, throttle, speedo.

If I was adding a WB02 and a CHT gauge I'd add the wiring to the chassis now.

I'd do an appearance restoration of the bay and if paint wasn't needed, I'd coat all the painted areas in the engine compartment with "PoorBoys Wheel sealant".
This stuff is designed to make nothing stick to wheels (brake dust). It works like a Teflon coating and the treated surfaces will stay clean for a couple of years.

In addition to what was said above, change the alternator/fan belt.

It is much easier to do with the engine out.

Clutch, TO bearing, etc is a huge call. I definitely should have driven the car before doing this. But visual inspection usually is a good indicator. Keep 'em coming fellas

Another thing I ALWAYS do is to mark the balancer/flywheel with accurate TDC marks for all cylinders.

I'll verify if the original TDC mark is accurate by aligning that mark and doing a leak down test on cylinder #1 or the one opposite in the firing order.

I'm putting 100 psi of air pressure on the top of that piston and if it doesn't try to roll one direction or the other, I'm +/- a half a degree of TDC. The original mark is now proven good.
Leak downs are done all plugs out and transmission in neutral if still attached.
We want nothing stopping the engine from rotating on its own.

I'll remove the balancer and use a "dress tape" flexible tape measure and make marks via length in the correct positions. A four cylinder gets marks 180 degrees apart.
A six should get marks each 120 degrees, an 8 4 at 90, and so on.

This way seems to work better for me than plotting out degrees. I'll get a total diameter and divide it appropriately.

Finding a flexible tape that is metric makes this easier...

I'll make the initial marks via pencil on masking tape. Test those out the same way I checked the first. Once everything is good, I'll transfer the marks permanently to the balancer.

Leak down tests in chassis become far easier if a balancer/flywheel is prepped this way.
I don't have enough experience with true Porsche engines yet. I would sort of expect this job to already be done with the stock parts.

The two T4 balancers I've messed with DO NOT!
One of these puppies is ONLY marked at 7.5 degrees and doesn't even have an initial TDC mark.
Someone should have been "taken out behind the Barn" for forgetting this...

Ripping the transmission off to inspect what's going on INSIDE the bell housing is an integral part of "engine out" in my book!

Jay,

I would put turbo valve covers and have them ground first so they clear the rear suspension, so it is easer to do the valve adjustments without dropping the engine. If you guys want, you can come over to my house to see how it is done on my 6. I think you can get them done by PMB Performance

You also may want to put a one-way valve, so the oil does not seep from the oil tank to the case causing a bunch of smoke when you start her up after sitting for a long time.
Product Details
Rothsport Racing Oil Inlet Check Valves prevent oil seepage from the oil tank to the engine, thereby reducing excessive smoking on startup, typical of cars that sit for long periods of time.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=347733
Review by Mark Henry


Best regards,

Bob Burton

Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Take some photos and post them here

In the been there/done that/t-shirt category..

Lower turbo covers are recommended, especially if still have the flat magnesium (?) original ones. Get a good grade of gasket with the silicon ridges around all holes & sealing areas. Do the exhaust valve adjustments all the way around, spin the engine a few times by hand, then check them all again. Make sure the lock nuts are snug and the swivel feet aren't loose.

You will need part of the turbo cover ribs milled down, only a small area, not the entire cover though. Several threads with pictures.

Is the engine pretty much stock, rebuilt at all (including oil pump)? Do you plan to drive it regularly? It will leak oil back into the crankcase if it sits for a while. Rothsport valve solved that problem for me, I see Bob added the thread about it. However, if you still have stock heat exchangers, it is a LOT tighter in there than some of the pictures show. I can send you pictures of how mine looks if you go that way.

Did anyone mention the timing chains and chain tensioners (and guide strips)? Just make sure they aren't really worn.

Try to avoid the 'while I'm in here' syndrome unless something pops up that absolutely can't be ignored.

Reseal

Great ideas Bob! I have the Rothsport valve in my 964 & 993. They work great! Might as well toss one in the 6. I’ll call you tomorrow. Maybe I can treat you to lunch and pick your brain a bit. Thanks!

Now just in search of the rubber engine surround seal

914 rubber.com


Matt

Auto Atlanta has a nicer one then the one I got from 914 rubber. Much more supple and fit in the channel easier

Ben,

Good to know

Bob B