I've read some past threads, but for the life of me I can't understand how to make the cable longer. One of my cables was seized, so I replaced both with the 914Rubber kit. Once installed, they're both quite short of reaching the caliper arm. I understand how the adjustment nuts make the sheath section longer or shorter, but what good does that do? The cable is a fixed length, right? Adjusting the sheath longer only makes it bend and deform because the brake end is locked into the stay on the suspension. I don't see what the point is of adjusting the sheath. How do you make a fixed length cable longer so it can reach the caliper arm?

I'd appreciate any assistance.

Thanks!

Bryan

Shortening the outer sheath via the adjusters shortens the length the inner cable is required to travel.

Pete

EDIT - naturally as soon as I post in frustration I decided to look at the clip in the cabin that the cables attach to. It was biased to the passenger side, so I had overadjusted that side. Loosening the passenger side and levering the clip gave me the slack I needed for the drivers side. Yay.



Hey all. I'm still having trouble with the new 914Rubber parking brake cables. Thanks to Pete's comments I was able to get the passenger side installed and adjusted, but can't get the drivers side. I've backed the adjustment nuts all the way out on the outer sheath and its fully seated in both the firewall sleeve and the brake bracket. I've even adjusted the venting clearance out of spec on the caliper just to try to get a millimeter more of wiggle room.

I can get it close enough to slip a 4mm allen into the cable end and the caliper arm, but that makes it so tight that the hub won't turn.

What can I be missing?

I have the same problem--followed the adjustment instructions, but no emergency brake. waiting for some expert advice

My observations:
If installing new cables, both must have the adjustment nuts all the way toward the sheath end of the cable (fully adjusted "long"). This gives enough slack to adjust the clip that they attach to in the cabin side to be equal and perpendicular to the cables. If it is skewed one way or the other, the opposite side cable won't reach.
You do have to adjust the venting clearance with the parking brake detached. If the cables are balanced correctly, there should be enough clearance to just barely fit them back to the calipers - and still allow for the rotor to move.
From there, the cables can be adjusted (nuts screwed toward the firewall tubes) tighter if needed for better ebrake grab (but still make sure they don't bind or interfere with the free movement of the wheel.

It's a little of a pain but this is how I've done it. I run the cable along the firewall then through the guide on the control arm. Like stated above, make sure that the adjustment nuts are backed all the way to the outer sheath. Get everything installed at the calipers. Go into the cab and remove the e-brake handle. Get everything installed inside then manhandle the e-brake handle back into place. Adjust cables as needed. Done.
And yes I used the cables from 914Rubber. The e-brakes work just fine now.