Hello fellow teeners....at least 10 years ago when I knew nothing about 914s I did not know how hot my engine was getting....even drove it to Death Valley in August...made it there and back but while waiting for my high school age son in 104 degree heat in the San Fernando Valley at 3:30 pm noises started to happen....valve seats were dropping like flies!!! So with engine out for the rebuild I could finally see the caked up oil mud on the cylinder cooling fins at least over 30% of each cylinder....no wonder it ran hot! Is there a way to inspect and clean the cylinder cooling fins without dropping the engine? I hate heat since it ends up costing me so much money and driving time !! Hope to hear some solutions...thank you very much!
gg

Probably more important to clean those little passages in the heads. No way i know but to take her out and remove the tins. My heads had most passages BLOCKED with gunk.
Casting flash in created little ledges th help collect gunk.
I had to go in with drills & files to clean these passages !!



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It’s often faster and easier to drop the engine than to work around it in the car.

Buy a couple cases of brake clean (a name brand) on Amazon and spray away. Followed by compressed air and a blow gun.

Its messy so put a big old sheet under the car.

The results are excellent and it leaves no residue and won't damage the rubber seals.

If it's caking up with sludge and dirt, it's likely to be leaking. You're not going to fix leaking while the motor is in the car.

Thank you very much. I know I won't be fixing any leaks, but a clean up might help keep my engine cooler?
gg

By the way....how is the access from under the car to clean the heads/cylinders? If I do take the engine out I may modify the tins to have a workable access hatch so you can clean and inspect easily. Maybe I will try it with engine in the car?
gg

Access from below is non-existent, you need total access from above: remove engine & transmission package, remove all tin, then you can start. Modifying the engine tin (particularly 2.0) is totally foolish. People are desperate for good 2.0 tin; I need two sets myself. I cannot see how it could be modified to create the access needed in any event.

Gun cleaning wire brushes on a cordless drill

http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop1.php

I am starting to get the message....oh well....thank you guys!!
gg

Yeah, compared to normal cars removing a 914-4 engine is faster and easier than doing almost any engine work in the car.

You can do it with the engine in, but it will not be as effective.
The big issue is the tin piece under the cylinders and above the pushrod tubes. You can't remove it without taking out the tubes. If its in place, all the goop you flood out from the top of the cylinders will collect on that tin. You can KIND OF get that clean by just flooding the heck out of it with rubber safe solvent.

It is possible to remove the piece of nose tin, then take off the alternator belt. Then pull the fan and finally the doghouse. From this point you have access to the inside TOP of the cylinders, enough to get in there with a rubber safe solvent and a lot of water. The idea is the the solvent loosens the crap and the water floods it away. It is VERY messy, and you don't have room to scrub.

You really are better off dropping the engine for this, but it is possible to do this way.

Zach

Thank you all!! Fixing all of the leaks would be a good idea as well, eh?
All the best,
gg