Big shoutout to @mgphoto for helping, guiding, and teaching me so much about this car we all love.

Without your guidance, none of this would have been possible...

We replaced a 50-year-old fuel tank, gaskets, filters, etc., (By the way, I'm selling the old one for $50 if anyone is interested).

We installed Tangerine Racing stainless steel fuel lines and all that comes with the kit—an upgrade that I've been wanting to do for quite some time.

We took the transmission out of the car, replaced the clutch (disk and plate), which was long overdue. The previous one was dated 1988! We inspected the flywheel, which didn't need any resurfacing, and while at it, we installed a new starter (twice as light and twice as efficient as the stock one).

Before removing the transmission, we had to remove the infamous heat exchanger. Luckily, the nuts came out okay, but I can now see how it can be a major pain in the ass if these rust...

We installed a brand new Vintage Speed Super Sport stainless steel muffler, which sounds awesome—nothing crazy but adds some character to the overall sound of the car (by the way, I'm selling the original muffler for $100 if anyone is interested).

We reassembled everything back together, adjusted the clutch, checked for fuel leaks, tested the car, and I couldn't be happier with the result. So, once again, a big thanks to the man who made all this possible, @mgphoto !

Next steps: Tangerine Racing master cylinder brace & shift linkage kit and J-West fog light module (for independent functionality), and the car will be complete... yeah, right...

P.S.

When we inspected the car, we noticed that in the rear wall where the brake lines are, my car doesn't have the proportioning valve (see attached image). I'd like to ask all you wise members for your thoughts on this.

I know the previous owner did some auto x with it, and I've reached out to see if he had removed it in order to be able to lock the rear wheels.

The car brakes fine, although I must say that I haven't had to slam my brakes yet, so I'm wondering about safety... For your information, my car has a 19mm master cylinder and BMW calipers up front...

I second the shout out to mgphoto and mgphoto kept me going on the road for a long time and I am still on the road because of his knowledge and efforts. What a fantastic guy!! All the best mg and hope to re-connect sometime soon!
gg

+1 to the community

So far as the proportioning valve, if I recall correctly it's required due to the possibility of having the rear brakes lock up, but make sure to double check.

Great project and great progress

I assume this means you guys will be autocrossing with me soon, right? Right...?

"When we inspected the car, we noticed that in the rear wall where the brake lines are, my car doesn't have the proportioning valve (see attached image). I'd like to ask all you wise members for your thoughts on this."

Isn't that the gizmo that provides anti-lock rear braking? It was very innovative for its time. Mid engine cars will spin out if the rear wheels lock up. Rear engine cars for sure & maybe even front engine cars? Regardless of front wheel drive, rear wheel drive, & all wheel drive? Now I'm having a senior moment. Time to play the guitar.

The rear brake pressure device chops line pressure at 525 psi.

I see it as a fluid accumulator that does not fill until 525 psi and after that pressure is reached no higher pressure is allowed to hit the rear calipers.

This is NOT anti-lock where a lock up condition is alleviated via a change in pressure to the affected brake caliper.

I consider this design as "never lock" as it hobbles the rear calipers into only allowing XX level of drag to be generated at the rotor.

Stock car, stock calipers, stock wheels/tires it's safest to leave it on.

Go changing stuff up and it might be more of a hindrance than a help hence it's common to see this valve removed on seriously modified cars.

Not having one on my car would NOT keep me from driving it. I'd test the system out on a smooth parking lot in the rain. Get froggy with the car and intentionally lock up the brakes. Who locks first?
We WANT the front to lock first.
Rear locking first is BAD JUJU on any car, especially if the CG of the vehicle moves aft as in a mid or rear engine car.
Spin is what results in rear locking first. At speed this can be VIOLENT!

If the rears lock first you have to do SOMETHING to either change the grip, pressures. or balance of the brake system.
The easiest way is to put a snubber like the original pressure unit on the system.

Properly choosing the correct diameters for your caliper pistons and master cylinder(s) is the best way to balance a system and is the reason most "race" brake set ups have two master cylinders and an adjustable "balance bar" between them.
When this is finely tuned this does not need any proportioning valve.

I've never seen the two masters the same diameter.

You changed your master from 17 to 19 which does not affect system balance. It only effects pedal stroke and required pedal force for a specific pressure in the system.

You've changed front caliper piston diameter. You increased it. This does affect system balance and for the same pressure the larger front calipers need increased volume which increases pedal stroke. The rear does not need increased volume and the increased pedal stroke will tend to increase the pressure at the rear calipers.

So, increasing front caliper piston diameter shifts brake balance rearward and the need for the snubber (or some other solution) is increased.

That is if I have my head screwed on right regarding this situation...

I prefer either a properly balanced old school set up with dual masters and balance bars or a full-on conversion to real ABS. It's common for folks to swap the BMW E36 parts onto cars (not 914s YET to my knowledge) that never had ABS.

After those systems I prefer a real adjustable proportioning valve that adjust the rear pressure in relation to what the front pressures are. This valve will ALWAYS have both the front circuit and the rear circuit going through it.

You might be able to add one of these to a 914. I'd expect it to end up in the frunk somewhere and not back where the original rear valve was.

Stef914’s car is set up for autocross, the front strut knuckles have been raised about 2 inches, BMW calipers up front with a massive front sway bar and the proportion valve removed yea it’s gonna rotate really fast. This driver likes canyon carving and the lack of rear brake pressure control could make a panic stop more than some want to handle.

I'm after a bigger sway bar for my car. 21mm isn't enough. Let me know if you have any leads.