Any thing I need to know?

Or just hit with penetrant, pray and break nuts free?

QUOTE (qa1142 @ Aug 18 2005, 02:46 PM)

Any thing I need to know? Or just hit with penetrant, pray and break nuts free?

I'd add "pray" a few more times and I'm not a religous person

good luck, hope you have a back-up vehicle just in case....

BE PATIENT!! use aerokroil or pbblaster. last time i used a combo of the 2. spray the nuts down well and let it work, i hosed them down for 2 days. spray again. if any threads are showing, get up in there and clean them as best you can. spray again. the nuts themselves don't require a lot of torque to tighten the he's down. if you feel like you're reefing on them, trouble is not far behind. lightly, LIGHTLY!!, tapping on the nut/stud with a punch and small, SMALL, hammer can help loosen the rust bond and vibrate the penetrant in. spray again . a slight working the nut back and forth as you remove them can help. spray again! hopefully, the worst it will be is, the stud turns out with the nut. spray again! if the clearence between the he and nut is too tight for your 3/8" drive socket, go to a 1/4" drive. when you get new nuts, get these 12mm.

k

Someone here at work swears by a product called Dri-Slide from a company called Russack....seems its a Moly based penetrant that works wonders on froozen nuts (as well as it's actual function as a lubricant...)

Don't use WD-40....Kroil or PB Blaster....SLIGHTLY tap with a hammer on the back of an extension and tighten first....loosen a 1/4 turn tighten agian, repeat...

4 studs came out and 4 nuts came off. No issues

The pan head screws for the engine tin were worse!

1 and 2 fail cold leak down test, I had planned to pull heads to plug air-pump holes anyway.

Hit the exposed head bolts with penetrant. more this weekend. time for a